Hi All; 
I know there has been some discussion on this previously and I did look in the 
archives. I found some info but just want to clarify a couple of things. I was 
worried about the canopy height on one of my projects and decided to measure 
the height on both projects I have. 

On Kr ... C -GSJS which is plans built and very true to the original concept, I 
have 17.5 inches from the seat back ( longeron height) to the bottom of the 
turtledeck. On Kr # 2 that same measurement is only 14 inches so no wonder my 
head hits the canopy. 
I was planning on making the turtledeck removable on this one anyway so am 
working on the best method to get a straight ,clean cut along the longeron and 
will follow the fastening methods used by a few of the guys who have removable 
decks. 

What I am wondering is, if I raise the turtledeck and canopy, fairng in the 
area between the front deck and canopy frame to streamline and be pleasing to 
the eye, do I have to do anything to the rudder and horizontal stabilizer to 
reflect the added 3-4 inches of height of the turtledeck? That is to say, will 
the added height interfere with the airflow over those surfaces? I also intend 
to make the HS wider and leave the elevator the same as it is now so if I have 
to do anything else, now is the time. 

The weather is getting a bit better up here in Canada and I am determined to 
get some progress made on both of these KRs. 

The other thing I am curious for feedback on is this. C-GSJS as I said is true 
to the original and has no starter. I would feel better if I were to add one to 
it. The magneto is fastened by way of the original X type of bracket and I 
don't think there is a way to put a starter in as it is close to the firewall.. 
6.5 inches firewall to front of engine mount. I have spare mounts that I could 
use but that moves engine forward about 2 inches or a bit more. That would 
allow me to attach a Diehl case and starter. The thing is of course the W+B 
will be way off. I was wondering if removing the battery from the firewall and 
mounting it further back in the fuselage would be the best way to try and get 
the W+B back in place. The other mod is also to swap the header tank ( one 
large tank) for a small header tank and put tanks in the stub wings as they are 
open currently, or into the wings themselves. I will be doing the tank mod 
anyway to prevent the CG moving around as fuel is burned. 

I have been doing a lot of epoxy work on tables that I build and am pretty 
comfortable with the West system now so want to get on these. 

As always, the expertise and advice of those on this KrNet is always 
appreciated and sought after. 



Bob Russell 
Winnipeg Creative Wood Design 
3027 Roblin Blvd. 
Wpg. Mb. 
R3R 0B8 
204-981-0762 

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