I changed out the 3/4 inch spring bar and installed a 1 inch spring bar on my 
kr2 after hearing about the hard landings putting the wheels up through the top 
of the wings on some other KRs with retracts.

My kr2 is actually a 1.5 bird since I made it a single seat version due to the 
gross weight being 1070# that includes me and 18.8 gallons of fuel.

Keep in mind my bird has a VW 1835 with an A-Jay turbo charger, electrical 
system, transponder and geared starter motor.

I also modified the gear lock system to use a 1/2 inch locking pin through a 
semi circle arch of steel that mounts to the center section hinge and the 
floor.  This pin is spring loaded to lock in place in the up and down position 
and is retracted via a jet ski steering cable and has an emergency hand hold to 
operate if the cable breaks.

I have not flown my bird for almost 19 years due to health problems (diabetes) 
which I am getting over having to use insulin and so should be able to pass my 
physical here shortly.  

I have been modifying several things on the plane getting it ready to fly 
again.  I am currently building an aluminum seat and I changed the position of 
the vertical stabilizer spar to eliminate the need for rudder trim, I was 
having to hold some left rudder to center the ball prior to this.  I also 
relocated the battery to the firewall, it was behind the seat before, and I 
moved the oil cooler from the top of the engine to the bottom and gave it its 
own NACA scoop for cooling air.

When I get everything back together and ready to fly I am hoping that I was 
able to lower the empty weight some and have a more forward CG for better 
control of pitch sensitivity.  I have approximately 250 hours on my bird so far 
and it is a lot of fun to fly.

I have flown it to Edwards AFB for their airshow a number of years ago and also 
to Wendover Nevada and several local airshows here in the west.

Oh, one other modification I am thinking about doing is to have the one inch 
spring bar machined down so that it tappers on the outer ends to reduce some of 
the weight without compromising the stiffness to much.

I also designed my own fuel flow gauge which uses no moving parts, it is a 
capacitive type fuel gauge and is very accurate, it uses a capacitive baffle 
plate inside the fiberglass tank and is accurate within 1/2 gallon in all 
attitudes.

Hope this information helps.

Parley Byington
N54PB KR-2 (1.5)
Henderson Nevada
byington1...@embarqmail.com



> On Jan 14, 2019, at 16:28, Flesner via KRnet <krnet@list.krnet.org> wrote:
> 
> On 1/14/2019 1:11 PM, Kevin Stolhammer via KRnet wrote:
>> That may
>> make it worth the expense.Certainly you work have to get some super
>> performance increase to make it cost effective.
> 
> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> 
> If you're factoring in cost, don't forget to account for the cost of a $400 
> propeller and engine tear down the first time the gear collapses.  The 
> retracts on the KR were quite a novel idea when Ken build his 480 pound KR2 
> but no one builds 480 pound KR's now days and haven't done so for the last 30 
> years.  650 pounds is more representative of a "light" KR today with many 
> coming in at 700+ and several most recent I'm aware of are 800+.  If a hard 
> landing in a 500 pound KR will put the gear bar through the top wing surface 
> imagine what a 2 G landing in an 800 pounder would do.  (can you say "instant 
> wing spoilers") If you're building a "light" KR and want to go retract there 
> is no reason not to.  Just be aware of the short comings of the original 
> retracts and try to eliminate any of their problems, as several builders have 
> attempted to do.  Some have tried modified lock downs, some have shortened 
> the bar to stiffen it, etc.,etc., ...........
> 
> Like I've said many times, go with what you're comfortable with and accept 
> the consequences.
> 
> Larry Flesner  (29 years of KR exposure - 15 years flying one)
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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