Steph,

The master switch is that way by design.  Usually, you do not want the 
alternator on line without the battery in the loop as most alternators will get 
a runaway overvoltage condition which will damage your avionics, or with no 
voltage to excite the alternator, they won't produce anything.  When the master 
relay is open the battery is isolated to the lead between the battery and the 
master relay, and the lead from the master relay to the master switch.  When 
you turn on the master switch, that provides the ground for the master relay 
connecting the battery to the rest of your electric system.  There may be 
instances with some dynamo type alternators where it is possible that you might 
want to be able to apply power from the alternator without a battery in the 
loop, but that circumstance would be quite rare.

I find that my Regulator indicates a 5 amp draw when I have the alternator 
enabled before the engine is started.  So, it is my practice to only turn on 
the battery half of the master switch, start the engine, then turn on the 
alternator half of the master switch once the engine is running.

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM 
 
-------------------------------
Cc: "Stef den Boer" <stefk...@ziggo.nl>
Subject: KR> Master switch wire
Hi,
I received today the master switch(Cessna)from aircraft spruce.

I understand how to wire it, but I think if you wire it the right way it is not
possible to isolate the battery.
There are 2 small noks in the red switch so you can switch of the altenator. But
if you want to keep the alternator connected en switch off the bat, the
aternator will switch off to.
It is easy to remove the 2 small noks but wat is your experiance?
Stef



Steph and his dad are building the KR-2S see http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2

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