Look at wikipedia under thermoelectric cooling...I think we're both right. On Aug 29, 2012 12:57 PM, "Nerobro" <nero...@gmail.com> wrote:
> You were close, but lost the plot when you started saying it was like > a car fridge. > > Thermocouples detect temperature due to the voltage generated between > dissimilar metals. You were right on that point. Thermocouples are > hilariously bad power sources, and can not be driven to generate cold. > If power is applied, they will only get hot. > > Car fridges are usually peltier devices. Which work on a different > principal. If you have a PN junction, and you apply current to it, > both electricity, and HEAT flows. If you make one side of a PN > junction hot, and the other side cold, it will generate electricity. > If you apply current to it, it will pump heat. > > On Wed, Aug 29, 2012 at 6:36 AM, jon kimmel <jkimme...@gmail.com> wrote: > > I'm just an aerospace engineer, but the way I understand thermocouples is > > that they are two different metals that are welded together...they > produce > > different voltages with different heat. Reverse that by applying voltage > > to the leads and you have a hot side and a cold side....that's how car > > refrigerators are made. Other than at the welded part the leads are just > > voltage carriers and can be any good conductor of any length. > > On Aug 28, 2012 6:39 PM, "Dan Heath" <da...@windstream.net> wrote: > > > >> I am certainly no expert on things electrical, but I have some > >> understanding > >> of how it works. The lead coming off the thermocouple is "thermocouple" > >> wire. You see how much I don't know. Well, I also did not know that > you > >> could run regular wire from it until I ordered a switch from Westach > that > >> is > >> meant to run from the end of the "thermocouple" wires, to the switch. > Then > >> the switch goes to the instrument. So, I deducted that if Westach > could do > >> it with a switch in the middle of it all, then it would work with > regular > >> wire also. I ran this switch on all 8 senders on my VW, and it worked > with > >> no issues, other than the switch kept breaking. > >> > >> So, when the person who sold me my D10 EMS, offered to wire it, for a > >> price, > >> I accepted. This proves that I don't know much about this stuff. He > was > >> doubtful that I could have him run the "thermocouple" wires to a > terminal > >> block and then run the Dynon (regular) wires to the Dynon. So, I > contacted > >> Westach and forwarded their answer to him confirming that there was no > >> problem with doing it that way. That installation also worked with no > >> issues. The only problem that I had with the installation at that point > >> was > >> that he (the wiring guy) would not believe me when I told him that it > did > >> not matter if the "regular" wires were not the same length, and who > could > >> blame him. So he ran a bunch of wire all over the place to keep them > all > >> the same length. After flying the plane and proving that the > installation > >> worked, I just could not help myself. I had to make the installation > more > >> "NEAT". So I cut the "regular" wires to the "NEAT" length for each > wire. > >> There is absolutely NO difference in the readings with this installation > >> and > >> I like it a whole lot better. > >> > >> What you cannot do, is to cut the "braided" part of the "thermocouple" > >> wire. > >> I cut off the supplied connector from the straight piece of wire on the > end > >> of it and crimped on a terminal connector. So, now I have 12 > thermocouples > >> running to a terminal block and 24 regular wires of different length, > >> running to the Dynon and it all works perfectly. This is the > installation > >> for my Corvair engine on my KR2. > >> > >> All I know is what I see. > >> > >> See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics > >> See you at the 2012 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN ? 40th > >> Anniversary > >> There is a time for building and it is over. > >> Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC > >> http://www.krbuilder.org/MyUSA/ > >> > >> > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> > >> Is it permissible to bring the leads to a splice block and then run > regular > >> wire from there on back to the instrument? > >> > >> In a word, NO. > >> > >> > >> _______________________________________ > >> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > >> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > >> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > >> > > _______________________________________ > > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html >
