I'm just an aerospace engineer, but the way I understand thermocouples is that they are two different metals that are welded together...they produce different voltages with different heat. Reverse that by applying voltage to the leads and you have a hot side and a cold side....that's how car refrigerators are made. Other than at the welded part the leads are just voltage carriers and can be any good conductor of any length. On Aug 28, 2012 6:39 PM, "Dan Heath" <da...@windstream.net> wrote:
> I am certainly no expert on things electrical, but I have some > understanding > of how it works. The lead coming off the thermocouple is "thermocouple" > wire. You see how much I don't know. Well, I also did not know that you > could run regular wire from it until I ordered a switch from Westach that > is > meant to run from the end of the "thermocouple" wires, to the switch. Then > the switch goes to the instrument. So, I deducted that if Westach could do > it with a switch in the middle of it all, then it would work with regular > wire also. I ran this switch on all 8 senders on my VW, and it worked with > no issues, other than the switch kept breaking. > > So, when the person who sold me my D10 EMS, offered to wire it, for a > price, > I accepted. This proves that I don't know much about this stuff. He was > doubtful that I could have him run the "thermocouple" wires to a terminal > block and then run the Dynon (regular) wires to the Dynon. So, I contacted > Westach and forwarded their answer to him confirming that there was no > problem with doing it that way. That installation also worked with no > issues. The only problem that I had with the installation at that point > was > that he (the wiring guy) would not believe me when I told him that it did > not matter if the "regular" wires were not the same length, and who could > blame him. So he ran a bunch of wire all over the place to keep them all > the same length. After flying the plane and proving that the installation > worked, I just could not help myself. I had to make the installation more > "NEAT". So I cut the "regular" wires to the "NEAT" length for each wire. > There is absolutely NO difference in the readings with this installation > and > I like it a whole lot better. > > What you cannot do, is to cut the "braided" part of the "thermocouple" > wire. > I cut off the supplied connector from the straight piece of wire on the end > of it and crimped on a terminal connector. So, now I have 12 thermocouples > running to a terminal block and 24 regular wires of different length, > running to the Dynon and it all works perfectly. This is the installation > for my Corvair engine on my KR2. > > All I know is what I see. > > See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics > See you at the 2012 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN ? 40th > Anniversary > There is a time for building and it is over. > Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC > http://www.krbuilder.org/MyUSA/ > > > > -----Original Message----- > > Is it permissible to bring the leads to a splice block and then run regular > wire from there on back to the instrument? > > In a word, NO. > > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html >
