The PO has installed only eight screws (that went into nuts), the full length of the aileron. The greatest interval between them was eleven inches. Recognizing afterward that this wouldn?t be very secure, he added some small woods screws later. That?s too cheesy for me to let stand, so I pulled everything out, and installed nut plates at intervals of six to seven inches. In order to accomplish this feat, I followed Brian Kraut?s advice. I cut holes with a one inch hole saw, just forward of the aft spar and dug out the foam, cleaned up the spar, then floxed on the nut plates. I used pan head screws to hold the nut plates in place while the flox cured, with washers under the screw heads to keep threads from getting protruding through the nuts, and getting buggered up with flox. There was no need to run a tap through the threads. The pan heads came out easily, and were replaced with countersunk bugle heads per instructions. Confirming other advice, I learned that a backing plate, rivet or screw will be helpful, but not necessary. The nuts will stay put when floxed correctly. Here's a question...I plan to fill the access holes with foam, then bevel and patch with successively smaller fiberglass circles. I was gonna cover the full length with some BID for structural strength, and finish with top layer of deck cloth for looks. Whaddya think? Considering I'm going to micro and UV Smooth Prime, is the BID/Deck cloth step just overkill?
Dan
