Yes I did - seemed to work well - it was originally described by the Rutan folks - one of his hired guns - if I remember right weight a gallon of featherfil and a gallon of ez poxy - guess which is lighter. Smooth prime hadn't made it to the market yet. Anyway that's the way I finished mine - it does take several applications - but you use significantly less epoxy with each pass. You can see the pinholes fill up with the epoxy as you wipe it across the surface - the trick is to squeegee like mad - you actually try to wipe off as much of it as you can - the idea is to fill the hole not to lay up a thick coat. Remember straight epoxy - no microballoons at this point. BTW did this in the heat of a Houston summer (I was using Ez Poxy before it was taken off the market) - can you say humid? didn't have any problems with the cure but you do become a dehydrated puppy - and develop a good case of tendonitis or carpel tunnel!
----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Jones" <flyk...@wi.rr.com> To: "KR Net" <kr...@mylist.net> Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2003 6:38 PM Subject: KR>Filling Pin Holes Has anyone tried the following method? What are the methods you use to fill pin holes??? Pinholes These are tiny voids, bubbles and pits caused by air mixed into the filler. They are invisible until the minute you start spraying the first coat of primer. They can give you a big headache if you attack them the wrong way. You might have heard horror stories of builders spraying coat after coat of primer trying to get rid of them. The bottom line is, you cannot fill the pinholes by spraying. Yes, if you keep spraying long enough, eventually they will disappear, but they will not be filled, they will be bridged. Bridged pinholes can cause the painted surface to develop little pimple like bumps on the sun when the paint softens some and the trapped air expands with the heat. Luckily, we have a simple effective way how to deal with pinholes before we even see any. Vacuum the surface real well to remove any dust and then squeegee pure epoxy resin over the surface. The coat is very thin and the amount of resin is mall, you are basically just wetting the surface, give it some time to soak in and squeegee off all the excess. The resin has very low surface tension so it flows into all those small voids and because unlike primers it doesn't contain any volatiles it doesn't shrink as it cures so the fill is complete. The second benefit of this step is that the resins hardens the top shell of the micro, making it more durable. A word of caution, many epoxy resins do not cure well and stay gummy at very thin coat, especially in humid condition. If yours is one of those or you are not sure, use the West system epoxy for this. When this top coat is cured sand it lightly with 100 just to break the gloss, and you are ready for the primer. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flyk...@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html _______________________________________________ see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
