Dan,
This is not a method I devised. I copied it from another's web site. I am
heading out to the garage right now to try this method in a small area. I
was just wondering if anyone else had tried this and what results they got.

Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Wales, WI  USA
E-mail me at flyk...@wi.rr.com
Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan Heath" <da...@alltel.net>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2003 8:45 PM
Subject: Re: KR>Filling Pin Holes


Mark J.,

Where have you been all of my SANDING life?

Thank you.

N64KR

Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC

da...@kr-builder.org

See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering

See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic
See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org

-------Original Message-------

From: KR builders and pilots
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wednesday, October 22, 2003 7:37:25 PM
To: KR Net
Subject: KR>Filling Pin Holes

Has anyone tried the following method? What are the methods you use to fill
pin holes???

Pinholes
These are tiny voids, bubbles and pits caused by air mixed into the filler.
They are invisible until the minute you start spraying the first coat of
primer. They can give you a big headache if you attack them the wrong way.
You might have heard horror stories of builders spraying coat after coat of
primer trying to get rid of them. The bottom line is, you cannot fill the
pinholes by spraying. Yes, if you keep spraying long enough, eventually they
will disappear, but they will not be filled, they will be bridged. Bridged
pinholes can cause the painted surface to develop little pimple like bumps
on the sun when the paint softens some and the trapped air expands with the
heat.
Luckily, we have a simple effective way how to deal with pinholes before we
even see any. Vacuum the surface real well to remove any dust and then
squeegee pure epoxy resin over the surface. The coat is very thin and the
amount of resin is mall, you are basically just wetting the surface, give it
some time to soak in and squeegee off all the excess. The resin has very low
surface tension so it flows into all those small voids and because unlike
primers it doesn't contain any volatiles it doesn't shrink as it cures so
the fill is complete. The second benefit of this step is that the resins
hardens the top shell of the micro, making it more durable.
A word of caution, many epoxy resins do not cure well and stay gummy at very
thin coat, especially in humid condition. If yours is one of those or you
are not sure, use the West system epoxy for this.
When this top coat is cured sand it lightly with 100 just to break the gloss
 and you are ready for the primer.


Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Wales, WI USA
E-mail me at flyk...@wi.rr.com
Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html

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