You're solving non-problems.  A good weld would stand lots of "push", and
never grind off the weld bead for cosmetic purposes.

Ron Freiberger
mailto: rfreiber...@swfla.rr.com

 -----Original Message-----
From:   krnet-bounces+rfreiberger=swfla.rr....@mylist.net
[mailto:krnet-bounces+rfreiberger=swfla.rr....@mylist.net]  On Behalf Of
Brian Kraut
Sent:   Monday, September 08, 2003 2:05 PM
To:     KR builders and pilots
Subject:        Re: Re: KR>rudder pedals

I think that heel brakes are a good alternative.  I had never used heel
brakes before though so I really had no idea how easy they were to get to.
I also had no tailwheel experience when I first did the brakes and I thought
that I would need quick and easy access to the brakes.  Now that I have some
tailwheel time I realize that you pretty much want to stay off the brakes
unless you are going straight and have everything under control.  Being too
anxious on the brakes is more likely to cause a ground loop than to prevent
one.

With what I know now I would seriously consider using hand brakes if I did
it again.  My original thinking was that I always needed on hand on the
stick and one on the throttle so that didn't leave a hand for the brakes.
Now I realize that when it is time to stop, the throttle should be at idle
so that frees up my right hand for the brakes.  When I need differential
braking while taxiing I should be going slow enough that I can let go of the
stick and reach over with my left hand to the brakes.  I could of even saved
myself $400 for the hydraulic brakes and left the cable operated drum brakes
on and ran the cables to two levers off the forward spar.  The main reason
for the hydraulic conversion was to put the brakes on the pedals.

Anyway, that is some food for thought for everyone else contemplating how to
do theirs.

Now back to what I have now, I looked at Mark's site on the rudder pedal
section and as usual found answers to all my original questions.  I printed
his template and the pivot point of the pedal is only about 1 1/4" from the
clevis attachment point on the master cylinder.  He is probably getting the
same braking with half of the pedal force.  I am going to shorten my arm and
I should have pretty effective brakes when I am done.
When the brakes are bled you really don't need much throw at all so you are
better off with a short lever arm for more leverage.


-------Original Message-------
From: Dana Overall <bo12...@hotmail.com>
Sent: 09/08/03 06:46 AM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: Re: KR>rudder pedals

>
> Brian, just a little food for thought.  I used those same cylinders on my
KR.  Short of fabricating new pedals incorporating a pivoting cylinder, I
chose to remove the cylinders from the assembly in an effort to allieve
the
pressure on the rudder horns and the various tie down points as the cable
moved aft.  I had a pulley near the front that I wanted to relieve
pressure
from also.  My sometimes convaluted thinking was at some point the rudder
system would fail before the braking system failed, opposite of your
situation so far though.  I thought I would rather have rudder than
braking.
  The current system may work just fine, but I just didn't like putting,
what I considered, undue stress on the cable system which had nothing to
do
with what I wanted to achieve.......and that was braking, not rudder
pressure.


My solution at the time was to remove the cylinders and mount them with
the
round foot pad pointing aft, between the two pedals.  I drilled two holes
in
the firewall and mounted the brackets to hold the cylinders firewall
forward.  A byproduct of this,  I was able to remove brake lines..thus
brake
fluid, from the fuselage.  I mounted them a little high so I could heel
the
rudder pedals but get to the brakes with my toes.  Had to be a little
pigeon
toed but it worked.  This way I was able to get full compression of the
piston, use of the rudder with no unnessesary demand on the calbes and had

very good braking.

Man, that got long winded when my initial reply was going be, "Hey Brian,
I
mounted mine between the pedals.........worked for me".:-)



Dana Overall
1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive

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