I think that heel brakes are a good alternative.  I had never used heel brakes 
before though so I really had no idea how easy they were to get to.  I also had 
no tailwheel experience when I first did the brakes and I thought that I would 
need quick and easy access to the brakes.  Now that I have some tailwheel time 
I realize that you pretty much want to stay off the brakes unless you are going 
straight and have everything under control.  Being too anxious on the brakes is 
more likely to cause a ground loop than to prevent one.

With what I know now I would seriously consider using hand brakes if I did it 
again.  My original thinking was that I always needed on hand on the stick and 
one on the throttle so that didn't leave a hand for the brakes.  Now I realize 
that when it is time to stop, the throttle should be at idle so that frees up 
my right hand for the brakes.  When I need differential braking while taxiing I 
should be going slow enough that I can let go of the stick and reach over with 
my left hand to the brakes.  I could of even saved myself $400 for the 
hydraulic brakes and left the cable operated drum brakes on and ran the cables 
to two levers off the forward spar.  The main reason for the hydraulic 
conversion was to put the brakes on the pedals.

Anyway, that is some food for thought for everyone else contemplating how to do 
theirs.

Now back to what I have now, I looked at Mark's site on the rudder pedal 
section and as usual found answers to all my original questions.  I printed his 
template and the pivot point of the pedal is only about 1 1/4" from the clevis 
attachment point on the master cylinder.  He is probably getting the same 
braking with half of the pedal force.  I am going to shorten my arm and I 
should have pretty effective brakes when I am done.
When the brakes are bled you really don't need much throw at all so you are 
better off with a short lever arm for more leverage.


-------Original Message-------
From: Dana Overall <bo12...@hotmail.com>
Sent: 09/08/03 06:46 AM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: Re: KR>rudder pedals

> 
> Brian, just a little food for thought.  I used those same cylinders on my 
KR.  Short of fabricating new pedals incorporating a pivoting cylinder, I 
chose to remove the cylinders from the assembly in an effort to allieve
the 
pressure on the rudder horns and the various tie down points as the cable 
moved aft.  I had a pulley near the front that I wanted to relieve
pressure 
from also.  My sometimes convaluted thinking was at some point the rudder 
system would fail before the braking system failed, opposite of your 
situation so far though.  I thought I would rather have rudder than
braking. 
  The current system may work just fine, but I just didn't like putting, 
what I considered, undue stress on the cable system which had nothing to
do 
with what I wanted to achieve.......and that was braking, not rudder 
pressure.


My solution at the time was to remove the cylinders and mount them with
the 
round foot pad pointing aft, between the two pedals.  I drilled two holes
in 
the firewall and mounted the brackets to hold the cylinders firewall 
forward.  A byproduct of this,  I was able to remove brake lines..thus
brake 
fluid, from the fuselage.  I mounted them a little high so I could heel
the 
rudder pedals but get to the brakes with my toes.  Had to be a little
pigeon 
toed but it worked.  This way I was able to get full compression of the 
piston, use of the rudder with no unnessesary demand on the calbes and had 

very good braking.

Man, that got long winded when my initial reply was going be, "Hey Brian,
I 
mounted mine between the pedals.........worked for me".:-)



Dana Overall
1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive

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