Why not just alum weld the tank???????


On Mon, 09 Jun 2003 07:00:26 -0400 "Dana Overall" <bo12...@hotmail.com>
writes:
> Bob, since I am still receiving e-mails from the KRNet I'll throw 
> this out 
> too you.  I would seriously recommend you rethink your idea to use 
> vinyl 
> ester resin/flox combination in building an aluminum tank.  The 
> tank, unless 
> made as one piece, flexes.  Proseal, or the product I'll mention 
> later in 
> this post, are made remain plyable and not become brittle as your 
> resin/flox 
> combination will do.  Do what you want, it's just my opinion but you 
> may get 
> a tank that is leak proof until it's first go round with vibration.  
> 
> Remember, another decision factor in using aluminum tanks is the 
> ability to 
> use any type of fuel you want with no regard for additives.  Some 
> additives 
> will adversely affect composite compositions.
> 
> Proseal is messy but it is a product that is made for this use, 
> there are 
> others.  I'm just familiar with Proseal and know how good it works.  
> The new 
> stuff Van's is recommending now is MC-236-B2 which is the quart 
> number.  I 
> used less than a quart on Mark's tanks.
> 
> In this case, I would seriously recommend one stick with products 
> made for 
> this use.  Bob, I understand your desire to use products you have on 
> hand or 
> are familiar with but in this case I just really feel you will be 
> disappointed in the final results when you have to go cutting into 
> your foam 
> wings to take out the tanks and replace them.  As for gluing the 
> sides 
> together, when you put 10 gallons in the tank you have added 60 plus 
> pounds. 
>   Add vibration throught the years and any "gluing" is going to be 
> prone to 
> separation.  I still stick to my guns and say rivet is together for 
> 
> integrity and the piece of mind in knowing you will not have to cut 
> your 
> wings open to solve a problem that could have been avoided.  I'll 
> guarantee, 
> the time you spend cutting a wing open is going to be in excess of 
> the time 
> you "saved" in cutting corners during the initial construction.  The 
> solid 
> rivets I recommended in my documentation are going to cost you about 
> $35.00, 
> once again they are made for this arrangement.  The bonding agent is 
> $39.40. 
>   Is it worth saving $75.00 to reinvent the wheel??
> 
> I think Mark Jones can chime in on the plyability of the proseal and 
> the 
> rigidity of his wing tanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Dana Overall
> 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider/fuselage
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >From: foamh...@ls.net
> >Reply-To: KR builders and pilots <kr...@mylist.net>
> >To: "KR builders and pilots" <kr...@mylist.net>
> >Subject: Re: KR>Aluminum tanks
> >Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2003 05:52:59 -0400 (EDT)
> >
> >I am about ready to build my tanks. I am going to try alum. bonded 
> with a
> >vinyl ester/flox mixture. I will let you know how it works.
> >
> >Bob Farmer
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > After all the talk about the tanks, I looked at the one that 
> Mark Jones
> > > has and it reminded me of all te hours I spent repairing and 
> sealing wet
> > > wings and the horrible smell of the proseal.  I would think that 
> by now
> > > there are better bonding agents for aluminum out there where one 
> could
> > > possible just glue aluminum panels together instead of riveting. 
>  
> >Anybody
> > > heard of anything like that? I am about ready to cut aluminum 
> for making
> > > my tanks and am still debating welding, riveting and proseal, or 
> any 
> >"new"
> > > options that I have not heard of.
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > see KRnet list details at 
> http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
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