Thank Mark for the reply. Give me something to think about.?
Did the switch fail because it was undersized for a DC circuit? ?

Sent on the new Sprint Network from my Samsung Galaxy S?4.

<div>-------- Original message --------</div><div>From: Mark Langford via KRnet 
<krnet at list.krnet.org> </div><div>Date:10/08/2014  8:02 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
</div><div>To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org> </div><div>Subject: Re: KR> 
Ignition switch </div><div>
</div>Paul Visk wrote:

>> I  was looking at WW's Critical Electrical System Diagram and 
thought of you when your ignition  switch failed.  Did both sides fail 
or just your primary side?     WW has a DPDT switch fuel/coil on his 
design.     I'm thinking  this is a single point failure possibility. 
  Wouldn't it be better to have two separate SPST switches to totally 
isolate the systems?<<

Only one side failed...the beauty of a double pole switch...the two 
circuits are completely isolated from each other, except they are within 
one enclosure.   I'm pretty sure WW got that idea from me...I did it 
first and he liked the idea, at least that's what he told me.  You could 
use two SPST switches, but when you do that you have the possibility of 
having them both turned off at once...not good in a rapid-first highly 
tense situation where that could be overlooked, and you'd also be 
connecting fuel to ignition, rather than keeping them separated.  You'd 
need four SPST switches to accomplish the same functionality, with an 
increase in human error potential.  When I flip my switch I wouldn't 
even notice anything happened except the green LED turns RED (it's a 
bicolor).  See http://www.n56ml.com/electrical/index.html to get the 
gist of how mine is done (although the bicolor LED isn't shown here).  
N56ML flew 1130 hours with this setup without a single hiccup.

Since the bad switch incident, I now start the engine with the switch in 
the "backup" mode, so the ignition gets its juice from the backup 
battery, rather than the main circuit.  This not only gives me a check 
of the backup battery, but it ensures the ignition system is getting a 
full 12.8V during starting, rather than "whatever is left over" when the 
starter has taken a huge bite out of the main battery power.   Once it 
starts, I swap it over to "primary" to make that red LED go away, and 
continue to fly it that way until I land. Works for me!   Of course the 
iEFIS also monitors and displays the voltage on both backup and main 
battery at all times anyway, so the main point is more juice to the 
ignition system and a check of the switch, rather than doing it on runup.

-- 

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com


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