Preservation Online: Current Issue
http://www.nationaltrust.org/Magazine/current/

Preservation Online: Current Issue: Cover Story
http://www.nationaltrust.org/Magazine/current/cover.htm

July/Aug 2005

An American Beach 

In northeastern Florida, a former opera singer keeps a unique 
community intact. 

BY ALAN HUFFMAN 

"Come on in, baby!" MaVynee Betsch calls from the back of her 
apartment, where she is trying to find a news clipping on one of the 
dozens of environmental and historical causes she supports. The 
stairway to Betsch's apartment—which occupies the second floor of an 
otherwise abandoned cinderblock building in American Beach, Fla.—
serves as overflow shelf space for her ever-expanding archive of 
documents and memorabilia. It offers a telling introduction to her 
world, though nothing can fully prepare a visitor for Betsch herself, 
whose persona is every bit as dramatic as the characters she played 
in Madama Butterfly and Salome, as an opera star in 1950s Europe.

When Betsch (whose first name is pronounced "MAH-veen") appears at 
the top of the stairs, it is as if she has burst onto a stage, and in 
a way she has. She smiles broadly, arms outstretched, wearing 
colorful, flowing fabrics and oversized jewelry. Her gray dreadlocks, 
seven feet long, curl like heavy ropes of Spanish moss from her head 
to the floor, and form a pillow-sized, Medusan mass that she 
sometimes carries in the crook of her arm.

Now 70, Betsch has fought to save the world's rain forests and the 
site of the Florida plantation on which her ancestors were slaves. 
But she has achieved most as the protector of American Beach, a small 
community on Amelia Island in northeastern Florida, founded by her 
great-grandfather in 1935 (the year she was born) as a resort for 
African Americans banned from public beaches during the Jim Crow era. 
The dunes and maritime forests of American Beach, now surrounded by 
encroaching development, have provided the most meaningful backdrop 
of MaVynee Betsch's life, and she gave up her stage career in 1965 to 
return.

Jangling her bracelets of shells strung on discarded fishing line, 
Betsch begins pulling photos from stacks of papers organized under 
Day-Glo green headings: beachgoers in front of American Beach's now-
shuttered Evans' Rendezvous nightclub; her great-grandfather's 
sprawling arts-and-crafts mansion in the ritzy Sugar Hill 
neighborhood of Jacksonville, Fla., about 40 miles to the south; and 
herself, striking a pose atop the 60-foot dune that dominates the 
beach and that she named NaNa. Betsch's crowded apartment is 
essentially her clearinghouse, her base of operations. There is no 
place to sit. The bed, illuminated by light from windows opening to 
the Atlantic view, becomes a work-table during the day. Despite a 
three-year battle with cancer, Betsch pauses only long enough to 
rifle through a few more newspaper articles before clasping her hands 
and saying, "Let's go, baby! I want to show you around!" 


For more of this story, subscribe to the magazine, look for 
Preservation on newsstands, or e-mail us to purchase a copy.


The National Trust for Historic Preservation 
(http://www.nationaltrust.org/) is a privately funded non-profit 
organization that provides leadership, education, advocacy, and 
resources to save America's diverse historic places and revitalize 
our communities. 





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