I have only dealt with the original G1 version of the Leaf Modules (8
volts max, single height, not the 16v max double height "stacks" they
use in the G2 leafs).
I've never had one "fuse" like you mention (that I know of) and I'm
unaware of any "deliberate" fusible links inside the cells. [But I can
certainly see one of the regular pouch cell "tabs" getting burnt open.]
I did pry one apart about 10 years ago, but I don't remember
specifically any tricks or hints. My general memory is that it IS glued
together and you'll just end up having to pry it all apart and the thin
sheet metal on the outside will probably never look the same. (And you
could not separate the individual pouch cells easily...which I think is
what I was investigating back in the day.... I didn't document what I
did as it didn't work out well for me, but I suspect somebody on YouTube
has done a module disassembly video you should search for.)
They rely on other hardware in the battery to compress the modules, so
no big bolts to remove in the module cases themselves.
I second the recommendation to just replace the entire module. Certainly
safer, possibly even cheaper from a time perspective.
Jay
On 6/4/25 00:10, Mr. Sharkey via EV wrote:
Cliff notes version of the problem:
Two of the modules in my 2P5S Leaf battery conversion for an Electrak
E20 tractor seem to have failed in an identical manner. The two modules
are a paralleled pair, with the voltage sense terminals bussed together.
What appears to have happened is that one cell in each 4-cell (2P2S)
module has been removed from the circuit, possibly due to a brief short
circuit. The nominal measured 100 Ampere-hour capacity of this pair of
cells has dropped to almost precisely 50 Ampere-hours.
I have a feeling that the brief short circuit may have opened an
overcurrent device in one of the pouch cells in the paired half of each
of the two modules.
Before I go on a long search trying to find healthy modules (SoH
~75-80%) to replace these, it might be worth a go to try and repair/
replace/reset the overcurrent fuse/breaker/fusible link that is causing
the problem.
The new problem is: trying to get the sheet metal off the exterior of
the module in a non destructive manner. Anyone here have tips or tricks?
So far, I've managed to gently pry the coverings almost loose, but not
enough to even peek inside. Are there hidden fasteners or some such, or
are these modules glued into a solid, non-openable brick?
Cor? Phil? Jay? Anyone?
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