For bolted connections the best way for reliability is the stacked foil
busbar, and slather everything in grease.   Keeping oxygen out of the
joints and ensuring no shearing forces is key.  Lee is correct, you will
never get a good connection with braided straps, they all develop high
resistance over time no matter how hard you hammer them.

On Fri, May 2, 2025 at 9:27 AM Lee Hart via EV <[email protected]> wrote:

> > And don't solder the braid into the copper pipe. Just wack the sh*t out
> of the pipe
> > onto the braid, you want the 2 copper metals to become homogeneous, on
> metal.
>
> I'm not sure that's a good idea. I rather doubt you can apply enough
> pressure to cold-weld the copper with just a hammer.
>
> I have a Simpson 1699 Micro-ohmmeter. I've used it for years to check the
> resistance of my battery connections. Hammer crimps are highly variable, so
> I no longer trust them. In the days of lead-acid batteries with their
> leakage, any exposed copper is certain to corrode. Soldering (I usually dip
> them in a solder pot) was the only way to prevent corrosion.
>
> Even with today's non-lead-acid batteries, corrosion is still a problem.
> Battery terminals are usually a different metal than the terminal you are
> connecting to it, promoting corrosion. Condensation and atmospheric
> pollution will still corrode the connections; just slower.
>
> Note that all commercial batteries use welded connections. That's about
> the only way to insure reliability.
>
> --
> Excellence does not require perfection. -- Henry James
> But it *does* require attention to detail! -- Lee Hart
> --
> Lee A. Hart https://www.sunrise-ev.com
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>
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