I agree with Phil.
I also doubt that cell towers are the root cause of your issue.
The problem is likely due to the motor wiring and other power wiring not
kept separate/distant from the throttle wiring. The throttle wiring
needs to be a small, shielded, 3-wire cable, kept very distant from any
battery or motor cables.
Additionally, the motor cables need to be kept very close to one
another, and the battery cables need to travel in pairs that are also
kept close to one another. Every battery cable that emerges from a
battery module needs to be paired tightly with the opposite polarity
battery cable carrying the return current.
Basically, bundle up the power leads, and motor leads on one side of the
car. Put the shielded throttle wire (at least twisted if not shielded)
far away from the power cables, preferably on the opposite side of the car.
A classic "self-inflicted wound" in DIY EV's is several battery boxes
distributed around the car and wired in a large single cable, series
loop, that surrounds the perimeter of the car. This loop acts like a
very nice loop antenna that bathes the entire vehicle in RF. Everything
electronic in the vehicle goes nuts when you press the throttle.
Bill D.
On 6/24/2023 5:48 AM, (-Phil-) via EV wrote:
Unless you have a cell tower right in your driveway (near-field), it's
highly unlikely that's the cause. More likely would be a local cell-phone
(yours) inside the car causing this when it responds to control channel
messages or you are on a call.
The most energy a cell tower puts out is somewhere below a few watts in
total, and due to the Inverse Square law: The radiation Intensity is
inversely proportional to the square of the distance. A WiFi access point
close to your car is going to expose it to more RF than a cell tower a
block away, but in either case the energy at the car is super low. It
would take an exceptionally "perfect storm" of bad engineering in the EV to
have this be a cause.
More likely it's interfering with itself. The amount of electrical and RF
noise in an EV is astounding, which is why even on carefully engineered
production EVs, AM radio doesn't work so well, and why it's being removed
from most of them. There are myriad ways your home-built EV could be doing
this, but impossible to determine without a thorough analysis. Though
obvious things to consider; Did you use shielded HV cables? Did you take
steps to minimize wire length, especially from controller to motor? Are
these routed as close together as practical? Are they shielded? What
about the battery wiring? Did you design the layout to minimize battery
loop inductance? Is the motor and controller grounded to the body with a
heavy flat braided jumper?
On Fri, Jun 23, 2023 at 10:30 AM David Heacock via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org>
wrote:
I have converted a 1985 Avanti to an EV and with the current LFP battery
pack I have a reasonable range of about 100 miles. Everything works well
with different components from different sources. However, one problem I
have yet to resolve is what appears to be interference from Cell towers
which basically seems to cut out the throttle and at slow speeds can
actually cause the vehicle to shut off and then come back on as the car
moves relative to the cell tower position. I have contacted a number of
people and suppliers about the issue and tried a number of things to
provide RF protection but have not been able to solve the problem. Has
anyone ever experienced this issue and a possible solution?
David Heacock
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