Yes, have already ordered a J1772 plug from a company whose name begins with a 
D— for the reasons you cite. 

I still would pay dearly if the specific steps were on YouTube, though. 😉

Sincerely, 
Bob Bath

Note: any misspellings of the contents of this message are due to 56 y.o. 
vision, hyperactive spell check changing what I typed, or fat fingering— not 
cluelessness. 


> On Aug 19, 2021, at 6:38 AM, Haudy Kazemi via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
> 
> Even on a 2012, there are connectors on the orange wiring harness, up
> front, that will allow the charge port assembly to be disconnected from the
> rest of the system. Should not need to do anything with the rear mounted
> charger system itself. The front bumper will probably need to be removed,
> and maybe some other front stuff, to get the needed access.
> 
> Basic tools should be sufficient (screwdrivers/socket set/plyers). I'd
> consider the task to be DIY-friendly, at least if you have a helper for the
> bumper. Avoid disconnecting any air conditioning refrigerant lines. There
> are also heater/coolant lines in the front. I think it should be possible
> to work around these lines.
> 
> Also plan on replacing both the J1772 plug and socket, as a bad plug will
> damage a bad socket, and vice versa. Failing J1772 ports on cars can damage
> previously good charger plugs at stations. Failing J1772 charger plugs at
> stations can damage previously good ports on cars.
> 
> The contacts are likely pitted from arcing, which leads to high resistance,
> which leads to heating, and eventually melting. Sometimes the arcing can be
> heard, especially if it is severe, or you may smell ozone near a freshly
> disconnected connector.
> 
> My advice is to periodically inspect the charge port and charge plugs,
> especially when using a new station.
> 
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Aug 19, 2021, 04:29 Jay Summet via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
>> 
>> Do you have a 2011/2012? (They are weird with the charger behind the
>> back seat).
>> 
>> If you have a 2013 or newer:
>> 
>> The charge port low voltage lines attaches to the cars wiring harness
>> under the hood (for the pilot/proximity wires and the LED light (if you
>> have one) with a small plug.
>> 
>> The L1/L2/N (larger high voltage power wires) connect to the top of the
>> "motor" stack (The charger/power distribution box/ Power Delivery
>> Module) with larger bolts.
>> 
>> For a 2011/2012 I could see it being an 8-10 hour process. For a 2013
>> I'd expect it to take a shop less than 2 hours if they knew what they
>> were doing, or 4 hours if they were following along with a service
>> manual and doing it for the first time.
>> 
>> Specifically look at page VC-141 in the Vehicle Charging (vc.pdf) file
>> for instructions on removing the J1772 charge port.
>> 
>> If you can find a wrecked Leaf in a Pull-a-part junkyard, it would be
>> MUCH cheaper (and well within the ability of a garage mechanic) to swap
>> it out yourself (on a 2013+...on a 2011/2012....I'm sure the wire snakes
>> all over the car and it might be easier just to have the shop do it for
>> you....
>> 
>> Jay
>> 
>>> On 8/18/21 11:38 PM, Bob Bath via EV wrote:
>>> Hey all,
>>>    Went out to find my J1772 EVSE melted to my charge port.
>>> Nothing on my Nissanleaf.com, nor YouTube about installing $600
>> replacement harness and charge port.
>>>     Given that Nissan wants 1200 shop time, I’m curious as to see if
>> that’s a legit 8-10 hour process. And given the possibility it might happen
>> 8 years from now, I’d like to do it myself next time.
>>> Ideas?
>>>> 
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