Hi Dan and All,Volt modules are very forgiving, robust assuming you stay 
within voltage, temp specs.  A major advantage is not having the cost, hassle 
of a BMS which can increase cost 50-100%.In the trike I just paralleled the 
48vdc sections in the 4kwh module and fused each section/string in your case 
and ground because these suckers put out 1k amps/section in parallel.I make 
fuses from solid copper wire from 16-14gge from the battery terminals, just 
make sure they fail safely.   I'm using a negative and positive 14gge ones on 
my S-10 Bolt module pack  and haven't popped .Make sure they are about the same 
string voltage when connecting them and check each cell voltage before anything 
to make sure they are within 2/100th of a volt of each other showing they are 
balanced.  If not you'll have to balance any cell to that standard. and note 
which one/s were off.   I've never had a cell out of that spec or ever had to 
balance one in the 10 or so packs I've gone through, In fact never outside of 
1/100th a volt difference which impressed me.  I just hope the Bolt modules do 
as well...On your high voltage you need special DC rated ones.  I'd drop amp 
size down until one blows then use the next size up.  Some 100amp fuses can 
take 300-400amps to actually pop.In a boat be careful that much voltage in that 
damp. Being wet you can get shocked by 12vdc, 162vdc would hurt or worse so use 
best practices.As one who designs, builds boats try to use the largest diameter 
prop you can turning as slow as it can you can get 2-3x the thrust from the 
same Kw by being more efficient, less prop frictional losses.Use a multihull or 
on a planning boat, wide, lots of planning area of the lightest weight..For 
that kind of continuous power you need the cooling.  For nothing else but to 
keep each cell the same temp and within temp spec.Note if you are boating, 
anchored  in tidal or river 2.5mph + currents you can regen/charge your 
batteries from many PM or A/C systems, regening.   At that HP I assume it's 
AC.If a big heavy boat without being optimized, range is likely to be very 
short.Stock iirc they put out 137kw to power the Volt motor and racers get 
300kw,1k amps per string.  They use 2 packs with Tesla controllers, rear drives 
mostly.Jerry Dycus
    On Friday, March 5, 2021, 06:31:25 AM PST, Dan Baker <[email protected]> 
wrote:  
 
 Thanks Jerry for your practical use of parallel pack info using Volt batts!  
Bummer on the trike - glad you are ok!  Did you just use a fixed charge 
connected to all the packs , no diodes or contactors?  It seems more ppl are 
using Volt packs without any BMS than those that use one. I'm going to be 
squeezing these Volt packs a little harder than stock though- think the cells 
might get out of balance more?   The pack is going in a big boat and I would 
like to see 100hp (or ~ 450 amps @ 162V) for a few fun pulls.  Boats are like 
cars except they are always going uphill, no regen or a break in power until 
the cruise is over.  So yes going to use their built in cooling if possible. 
Thanks againDan    
On Fri, Mar 5, 2021 at 8:04 AM jerry freedomev <[email protected]> wrote:

 Hi All,Tuesday I was slowing for a light and a compact  hit me at  at 50mph 
from the rear in my 700lb EV trike pickup and unlike the one 20 yrs ago in my E 
woody which only took $40 to put back on the road, the trike was totaled.Again 
good engineering using my rear tires as a crash load absorber  and me going 
25mph took the crash impact  greatly  cutting the impact forces to where I 
could hold onto the handlebars and ride it out fairly safely.It worked great 
with 4 Volt  2kwh 48vdc banks/sections  in parallel without a BMS for 2.5 yrs.  
Sadly they did not survive.I got my new to me S-10 EV going and cutting the 
voltage of parallel Bolt modules but will have to limit it to 120vdc so only 
36kw instead of the 144vdc 48kwh I wanted.  So today I get to test it's range 
so I know what it'll do on a single charge and build the aero camper to cut 
weight and improve aero to .25cd or better.   One problem is the Curtis 1231C  
whines all the time vs cutting out after it gets out of low speed.   Also 
whines when stopped.  Any advice to stop these or what the problem might 
be?Thanks, Jerry Dycus
  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: 
<http://lists.evdl.org/private.cgi/ev-evdl.org/attachments/20210305/6fa688d5/attachment.html>
_______________________________________________
UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
ARCHIVE: http://www.evdl.org/archive/
LIST INFO: http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org

Reply via email to