Hi Guys, I'm new to the EVDL and loving the depth of conversations everyone has, wonderfully educational for a beginner like me.
I'm hopefully just about to start my first conversion... was going to use Li-Ion batteries but have been reading this and wondering what all the fuss is about NiCd. Could someone explain what are the differences/benefits of NiCd vs Li-Ion for an EV? I saw someone mention "Very long life, don't mind sitting dead when not needed, and good for very high currents." for NiCd. But looking at eBay they seem more expensive and worse W/kg than Li-Ion? All the comparisons I've found are in relation to function in power tools. Apologies if this isn't the way you post to the EVDL. Many thanks, Matthew 07966 806 727 On 3 September 2016 at 20:06, Cor van de Water via EV <[email protected]> wrote: > John, > One of the US Electricar owners just pulled his BB-600 out of his truck > since several had died and excess electrolyte was eating the alu box. > He has appropriately replaced them with a Leaf pack. I will shoot him an > email with your question to see if he wants to sell/ship to you, > unfortunately he is at the East Coast. > > Regarding the weight - if they are not leaking, you could leave the > original Lead in place and just mount one single end plate of the > Lithium stack to the frame of the lift, you are aware that the Leaf > cells (and probably other Li cells as well) must remain under > compression or risk bursting the cell pouches open, inside the modules? > > You cannot tap high current from the center contact of a Leaf module, > only the two end contacts are rated for the 200A continuous current, the > center connection is rated for 10A if I am not mistaken. > That is why I would cut open the terminal end to remove the plastic > covers of the internal bus bars, cut the one going from the first pair > to the second pair and then rewire to have all 4 in parallel. The guy > from the Electric Samba (VW van) has YouTube videos about how to open > the modules and shows how they are interconnected. I think he wanted to > lighten the pack by removing the shell of the module, but that work was > for naught as the sheet metal shell weighs almost nothing and you need > to mount and compress the pouch cells inside anyhow. But the videos are > instructive in how to remove the black plastic cover strips to get at > the bus bars (which are the copper strips that are visible at the two > end terminals). > Here is a direct link to his videos, you see him get at the terminals in > this part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeTxXkBAc60 > > Hope this helps, > > Cor van de Water > Chief Scientist > Proxim Wireless > > office +1 408 383 7626 Skype: cor_van_de_water > XoIP +31 87 784 1130 private: cvandewater.info > > http://www.proxim.com > > This email message (including any attachments) contains confidential and > proprietary information of Proxim Wireless Corporation. If you received > this message in error, please delete it and notify the sender. Any > unauthorized use, disclosure, distribution, or copying of any part of > this message is prohibited. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: EV [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of John Lussmyer > via EV > Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2016 9:05 AM > To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List > Subject: Re: [EVDL] Alternatives for Golf Cart and Forklift batteries > > On Sat Sep 03 08:54:20 PDT 2016 [email protected] said: > >John Lussmyer via EV wrote: > >> I have a couple of old electric forklifts that I use occaisionally in > my shop. > >> One is a little walk behind unit that uses 2, 6V golf cart batteres. > >> The other is a full size forklift that has a 36V, 750AH battery. > >> > >> I need to replace these batteries. I don't like Lead-acid batteries > for these machines, as they often sit unused > >> for months. > > > >I would think that lithiums would be an expensive option; far more than > >lead-acids. I'd also be concerned about the cost of lithium cells with > a > >high enough peak current capability. These lifts usually draw hundreds > >of amps. > > The cheapest 36V forklift battery I've found is a refurb, 1yr warranty, > 510AH for $2000. > That is FAR more battery than I really need. (as I said, using the lift > for 1/2 hour or less, now and then, frequently more than a month between > uses.) > > I'm tempted to try 5 Leaf modules in series for 40V, that's only about > $500 if I buy them individually. > (though I am tempted to watch for a wrecked Leaf instead.) > > As for the 12V unit, a pair of Golf Cart batteries seems to be in the > $200-$300 range. > In which case, 3 Leaf Modules is about the same price. (Yeah, splitting > the one into separate halves would be a pain. Frankly, might be easier > to just "ignore" the 1/2 module and use 1 + one half (or 2 + 2 halves) > Leaf Modules) > > >Another thought... didn't you have a set of aircraft nicads? They > should > >be idea for this kind of application. Very long life, don't mind > sitting > >dead when not needed, and good for very high currents. > > Yup, those would work great - but all mine got destroyed in my shop fire > 10 years ago. > Haven't seen any for sale in a few years. > > > -- > > Bobcats and Cougars, oh my! http://john.casadelgato.com/Pets > _______________________________________________ > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org > Read EVAngel's EV News at http://evdl.org/evln/ > Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA > (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA) > > _______________________________________________ > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub > http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org > Read EVAngel's EV News at http://evdl.org/evln/ > Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/ > group/NEDRA) > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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