Here's what you need to SWAG the utility of PV panels on the truck.

The sun can be assumed to produce 1000W/square meter when it is out with
few clouds and high enough in the sky.  The very best panels will return
about 20% of that, many will do much less.

In case you don't know Watts = Volts x Amps for DC.

Suppose you get panels that equal two 4' x 8' sheets (64 feet^2 (feet
squaresd)) of plywood (intuition says you won't try to mount more than
that).  That is just under 6 meter^2.  When the sun is cooking good with
great panels you will get 1200 watts. If you get that for an hour you have
1.2kW hours generated.

Then you have to pick a pack voltage, and know something about that current
draw..

1200 watts is pretty meaningless so you have to factor in the time that
watts are produced and the time it is comsumed.  W hours = (VA) hours.

You may want to compare to the battery capacity and rate of use for
existing vehicles.  Your '51 is almost a bluff body compared to a Tesla S
or  Leaf.   If you have a 60 mile round trip you might guess you need twice
a Nissan Leaf pack in capacity.

1200 watts is not insignificant, but a vehicle uses a lot.  You also can't
count on it the whole time the sun is up, and the cloud cover.  You might
average out to 1200W  over seven hours a day in the summer in the desert
southwest, or 4 hours in Nova Scotia.

If you are trying to get a meaningfull effect parked in the parking lot at
your grocery store, good luck, it will be a very small amount.  You might
be better off taking the cost of panels on the truck and all the peripheral
stuff, and instead buying more battery cells and charging at home.

Everything about generating power from solar energy gets better when it is
not mobile. You just have to go home to get it.  In your case you might
mobilize the thing and still have to go home.

Anyway you should do the numbers yourself.  It will be instructive.  You
can come to the discussion list for checking the results.


On Mon, Jan 18, 2016 at 1:20 PM, Pestka Denis via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org>
wrote:

> Bobby;
>
> Good luck with the build.
> I converted a 65 Datsun Pickup, and love it.
> EVAlbum, 1366
> Fun to drive, and it gets a lot of attention.
>
> Dennis
> Elsberry, MO
>
> ________________________________________
> From: EV <ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org> on behalf of Bobby Keeland via EV <
> ev@lists.evdl.org>
> Sent: Monday, January 18, 2016 8:51 AM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List; John Lussmyer
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Converting '51 Chevy pickup: Books on converting a
> car      to ev?
>
> Thanks for the replies to my question regarding the 1951 Chevy pickup. In
> answer to your questions:
> I'm retired so don't have a daily commute, but it is 30 miles to my doctor,
> dentist and whole foods for grocery shopping. I only drive when I need
> something. Range is of course a concern. I used to have a 1988 S-10 but
> sold it some time ago. I do prefer the look of the 1951.
> I prefer li-ion batteries. With a heavy vehicle I'd rather not add even
> more battery weight.
> An e-meter would be a definite.
> Yes. I can do a lot of work myself. I have the time and I've done quite a
> bit of auto and electrical work. Getting dirty and busting some knuckles is
> nothing new to me.  I spent 9 years in the army as infantry/combat
> engineer.
> Perhaps I can add solar panels on a rack over the pickup so that it is
> recharging whenever the sun is shining. That will not provide a complete
> recharge while shopping, but it should help some.
>
> I'm in no hurry to start the EV project as I have several other projects to
> complete:
> 1) finish the solar panel, charge controller, etc. install on an RV. It is
> installed. I just need to add more solar panels,
> 2) finish some solar hot water panels so I can have both hot water and
> radiant floor heating,
> 3) add a gutter system and tanks so that I can collect rainwater,
> 4) add more PV panels and batteries so I can go off grid,
> 5) add a trike kit to my Harley Sportster.
>
> Bob Keeland, Forest Dynamics
> On Jan 13, 2016 9:48 AM, "John Lussmyer via EV" <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
>
> > On Wed Jan 13 07:05:47 PST 2016 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
> > >Meaning you may decide initially to go with the lower cost lead-acid
> > (PbSO4)
> > >flooded batteries (i.e.: 24 T-105's in a box in the truck bed) but also
> > >consider what-if later you went for the taller t-145, or upgraded to
> > li-ion
> >
> > Nowadays, there is pretty much NO reason to start with lead-acid.  Li-ion
> > don't cost that much more up front, are smaller, lighter, and last FAR
> > longer.
> >
> > >Having an e-meter in the dash cluster than can tell you how much energy
> > >capacity you have left or charge you still need, etc. is a very useful
> > item.
> > >Here is one, see
> > >https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Xantrex+Link+10
> >
> > I've been using one of these:
> >
> >
> http://www.lightobject.com/Programmable-Digital-AH-meter-blue-led-Ideal-for-battery-monitoring-P278.aspx
> > The main difference I've found from a Link-10 is that it doesn't
> > auto-reset after charging.  I have to press a button to do that.
> >
> > >Like my Blazer was, your older pickup is a heavy inefficient donor for
> > >conversion. So, I suggest you have a drive system that has regen (has an
> > AC
> > >motor and controller). Regen can gain a few miles, but its other gain is
> > in
> > >using the friction brakes a whole lot less (they last longer).
> >
> > It also depends on your driving pattern.  95% of my trips involve 2
> stops,
> > driving 8-20 miles, 2 more stops.
> > Not much useable regen at all.
> > DC drive was a FAR less expensive option.
> >
> > >Your ice pickup has about a 90hp engine. For the same performance you
> > ought
> > >to have at least a 144VDC pack. There are several sources for EV
> > components.
> > >Shop around do not limit yourself to what I use as examples. Here is a
> > >144VDC peak 88hp AC motor/controller kit, see
> > >
> >
> http://www.electricmotorsport.com/ev-parts/motor-drive-kits-2/ac-induction-motor-kits/ac-51-kit.html
> >
> > AC Drive, Max of 88 HP for $4600
> > DC drive system (Warp 9, Z1K), Max HP 200+, for $4000
> >   (also, can handle a WIDE voltage range, which allows a much broader
> > range of battery pack configurations.)
> >   I'm using a pair of Impulse 9" (should have used Warp 9") motors, and a
> > Z2K.
> >   Provides nice acceleration for my 6300 lb truck.
> >
> > --
> >
> > Tigers prowl and Dragons soar in my dreams...
> > _______________________________________________
> > UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
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> > Read EVAngel's EV News at http://evdl.org/evln/
> > Please discuss EV drag racing at NEDRA (
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
> >
> >
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