Thanks for the replies to my question regarding the 1951 Chevy pickup. In
answer to your questions:
I'm retired so don't have a daily commute, but it is 30 miles to my doctor,
dentist and whole foods for grocery shopping. I only drive when I need
something. Range is of course a concern. I used to have a 1988 S-10 but
sold it some time ago. I do prefer the look of the 1951.
I prefer li-ion batteries. With a heavy vehicle I'd rather not add even
more battery weight.
An e-meter would be a definite.
Yes. I can do a lot of work myself. I have the time and I've done quite a
bit of auto and electrical work. Getting dirty and busting some knuckles is
nothing new to me.  I spent 9 years in the army as infantry/combat engineer.
Perhaps I can add solar panels on a rack over the pickup so that it is
recharging whenever the sun is shining. That will not provide a complete
recharge while shopping, but it should help some.

I'm in no hurry to start the EV project as I have several other projects to
complete:
1) finish the solar panel, charge controller, etc. install on an RV. It is
installed. I just need to add more solar panels,
2) finish some solar hot water panels so I can have both hot water and
radiant floor heating,
3) add a gutter system and tanks so that I can collect rainwater,
4) add more PV panels and batteries so I can go off grid,
5) add a trike kit to my Harley Sportster.

Bob Keeland, Forest Dynamics
On Jan 13, 2016 9:48 AM, "John Lussmyer via EV" <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:

> On Wed Jan 13 07:05:47 PST 2016 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
> >Meaning you may decide initially to go with the lower cost lead-acid
> (PbSO4)
> >flooded batteries (i.e.: 24 T-105's in a box in the truck bed) but also
> >consider what-if later you went for the taller t-145, or upgraded to
> li-ion
>
> Nowadays, there is pretty much NO reason to start with lead-acid.  Li-ion
> don't cost that much more up front, are smaller, lighter, and last FAR
> longer.
>
> >Having an e-meter in the dash cluster than can tell you how much energy
> >capacity you have left or charge you still need, etc. is a very useful
> item.
> >Here is one, see
> >https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Xantrex+Link+10
>
> I've been using one of these:
>
> http://www.lightobject.com/Programmable-Digital-AH-meter-blue-led-Ideal-for-battery-monitoring-P278.aspx
> The main difference I've found from a Link-10 is that it doesn't
> auto-reset after charging.  I have to press a button to do that.
>
> >Like my Blazer was, your older pickup is a heavy inefficient donor for
> >conversion. So, I suggest you have a drive system that has regen (has an
> AC
> >motor and controller). Regen can gain a few miles, but its other gain is
> in
> >using the friction brakes a whole lot less (they last longer).
>
> It also depends on your driving pattern.  95% of my trips involve 2 stops,
> driving 8-20 miles, 2 more stops.
> Not much useable regen at all.
> DC drive was a FAR less expensive option.
>
> >Your ice pickup has about a 90hp engine. For the same performance you
> ought
> >to have at least a 144VDC pack. There are several sources for EV
> components.
> >Shop around do not limit yourself to what I use as examples. Here is a
> >144VDC peak 88hp AC motor/controller kit, see
> >
> http://www.electricmotorsport.com/ev-parts/motor-drive-kits-2/ac-induction-motor-kits/ac-51-kit.html
>
> AC Drive, Max of 88 HP for $4600
> DC drive system (Warp 9, Z1K), Max HP 200+, for $4000
>   (also, can handle a WIDE voltage range, which allows a much broader
> range of battery pack configurations.)
>   I'm using a pair of Impulse 9" (should have used Warp 9") motors, and a
> Z2K.
>   Provides nice acceleration for my 6300 lb truck.
>
> --
>
> Tigers prowl and Dragons soar in my dreams...
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>
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