I have been running four IOTA's 45 in parallel on the input and output side.  
Each high voltage input is fuse with a Busman Limitron 5 amp fuse and the 14.5 
volt output is fuse with a standard 35 amp auto fuse.  

The 14.5 volt output  is also parallel with a commercial alternator which can 
be adjusted from 13.5 to 15 volts which is design for charging a deep cycle 
battery which is also in parallel. The alternator is set for 14.5 volts which 
is also a inverter that has 110 vdc that is inverted to 120 vac 60 hz rated at 
7kw.  

The converters are in a air cool compartment in the rear of the EV.  The feeder 
circuit to the alternator is 25 feet long which consist of six No. 6 AWG 
stranded copper wire.  The converters output voltage may drop to about 13.8 
volts at a 100 amp load.

I have a ampere and voltage indications at each end of this circuit.  As the 
rpm of the alternator drops below 1200 rpm or motor rpm drops to 300 rpm (4 to 
1 pulley ratio) the alternator goes off line, the converters come on line thus 
providing 14.5 volts while the EV motor is at 0 rpm. 

I been running this set up since September of 2002 with no problems. The 
maximum ampere I had on the IOTA's 45 is about 25 amps per unit in the winter 
running three electric heaters at 43 below zero.  The 14.5 volts is inverted to 
120 vac 60 hz 5kw which is use for the heaters, fans, and pumps. 

This circuit also had a transfer switch, where I could preheat the EV with 
commercial power before I left. Back when I working, the ICE vehicles never had 
a chance to beat me to the gate from the parking lot which consist of pushing 
through a foot of snow. 

Roland  


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Lee Hart via EV<mailto:[email protected]> 
  To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List<mailto:[email protected]> 
  Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2014 12:09 AM
  Subject: Re: [EVDL] Miles Remaining


  Michael Ross via EV wrote:
  > I wonder if you can run two in parallel?

  Usually, no. Whichever one happens to have the slightly higher output 
  voltage will try to supply *all* the power, and the other one just 
  loafs. The overloaded one may shut down, or overheat, or otherwise do 
  something undesirable.

  But in a pinch, you can add a small resistance in series with each 
  output; enough to drop the output maybe 5% at full load. The voltage 
  drop forces them to share the load better.

  -- 
  Anyone can make the simple complicated. Creativity is making the
  complicated simple. -- Charles Mingus
  --
  Lee Hart's EV projects are at 
http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs.htm<http://www.sunrise-ev.com/LeesEVs.htm>
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