Found an ebay listing for WRB4812S which has 36-72V input and 12V output. Bought it. Then re-read and found that it's a 1W part and the meter is listed at 2W. Oops. Guess I'll measure what it actually draws; I assume that's for the relays that I don't even want to drive. Maybe I can configure the setpoints so that it doesn't draw power for the relays and it lives on 1W...
On Thu, May 15, 2014 at 8:59 PM, Michael K Johnson <[email protected]> wrote: > Well, my system floats from the frame, but lightobject responded: > > : The power of the JLD404 is isolated and the ground of the > : power negative has no common to the Input ground. You do > : NOT want to common ground the power and the INPUT ground. > : Otherwise, the amp meter won't work and that is the pretty of the > : JLD404 with isolated Ground > > So I guess it's off to ebay for an isolating power supply. I haven't > seen one yet that can handle 48V and output 12V, so it looks like > I'll have to put it downstream from my buck converter. > > On Thu, May 15, 2014 at 1:34 PM, Rick Beebe <[email protected]> wrote: >> Jack's concern was that the meter might make a connection between frame >> ground and the high voltage pack so he put the DC-DC in for isolation. I >> did have that problem on the analog volt meter I used to have in the >> truck so I put one in as well. However I don't have any evidence to >> suggest it's really necessary for this meter. I haven't found any >> continuity between the 12v power and high voltage connections on the >> meter. But the DC-DC was only a couple bucks so it was cheap insurance. >> >> --Rick >> >> On 05/14/2014 08:17 PM, Michael K Johnson wrote: >>> Thank you! That's perfect! All you are really doing is programming >>> mV/A with a max of 75mV, so that makes sense. >>> >>> The EVTV diagram says "Isolated 12v to 12v DC-DC Converter". I didn't >>> see anywhere else that the negative power terminal on the JLD404AH >>> cannot be tied to the COM terminal. And all my 12V regulated supplies >>> are common negative. I don't have a separate 12V house battery in the >>> lawn tractor. Are you using an isolated dc-dc converter in your truck? >>> >>> >>> On Wed, May 14, 2014 at 9:10 AM, Rick Beebe via EV <[email protected]> >>> wrote: >>>> I have one in my truck and it works great. It wants a 75mV shunt but I >>>> have a 50mV/500A. You just lie the meter--I.e. I said it was connected >>>> to a 75mV/750A shunt. >>>> >>>> The manual is available here: >>>> http://www.lightobject.info/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1074 >>>> >>>> Jack Rickard of EVTV has written a plain english one here: >>>> http://media3.evtv.me/JLD404AH.pdf. >>>> >>>> --Rick _______________________________________________ UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub http://lists.evdl.org/listinfo.cgi/ev-evdl.org For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
