Hi thank you all for the advice, and so fast.

I took the advice to work with a cordless mower rather than re-purpose an
ICE mower.   Craigslist brought me a B&D CMM1200 which seems to be quite a
hoss at 1200W.   24V.   Bagger/mulcher,  1.5A charger.  The only thing I
could see amiss was a missing knob on the push structure replaced with a
hex nut, and a worn out blade.  The batteries look like two gel Pb cells
shrink wrapper together - not very big by the scale of the diagram.  The
wheel leveling seemed very easy - hope it holds up.  I like the thick
plastic hull - I think that makes a lot of sense - polyethylene can take a
lot of abuse and will bend not break. The owner did not have a very big
yard so he couldn't say much about mowing time.  $145 seemed like a very
fair price.

I will be curious to see where it cuts off and to what voltage it charges.

I guess I will have to find some other thing to convert.


On Mon, Apr 28, 2014 at 6:05 PM, Peter Eckhoff <[email protected]> wrote:

> Thanks Mike for the recommendation.
>
> My blade on my B&D MM675 measures 17.5" even though the specs say 18"
> cutting path.  Most of the lower voltage electrics have a 14" blade.  The
> smaller mower means more passes.  Something to think about.
>
>
> On 4/28/2014 3:45 PM, Michael Ross wrote:
>
>> I have another battery from these people that seems just fine (after
>> taking
>> it apart to see inside)
>>
>> http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/24V-40AH-
>> LiFePO4-Battery-Pack-Electric-Bicycle-electric-Scooter-
>> bicycle-E-Bike-Lithium-Ion-Long-life/328001_771068114.html
>>
>> This one is 24V 40Ah LFP and weighs 9kg.  $500 including shipping BMS and
>> charger. 3 to 7 day delivery and the met that. These that 18650 cells with
>> welded straps for conducting the juice.
>>
>> I think I will try to get a used 24V B&D instead of reworking my old
>> bottom
>> of the line MTD.
>>
>> I think my wife would love to have an electric mower.  She hates asking me
>> to start them for her.  It would be nice not having all the oil checking
>> and filling,   And as the current mower works - the rod knocking and
>> smoking.  We have an acre of mostly flat yard - 40Ah would go a long ways
>> and the charge time is about 2 hours.
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 28, 2014 at 3:25 PM, Peter Eckhoff <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>  Hello Mike,
>>>
>>> I'll second what Cal is saying below.  To get the nut off, you have to
>>> place a wrench on the nut and "impact" it until the nut loosens.  I would
>>> **not** use a compressed air impactor tool.  I use my fist.  Be careful
>>> because everything is free wheeling.  If you leave your knuckles in the
>>> path of the blade, your knuckles are going to get whacked.  There is no
>>> other place to place another wrench unless you weld a nut to the top of
>>> the
>>> motor shaft.
>>>
>>> Like Cal, I keep a set of several "small plastic blade insulators" on
>>> hand
>>> which is how they are described in the User's Manual.  The word
>>> "insulator"
>>> may seem like a misnomer but it is to "insulate" the shock of hitting a
>>> rock from damaging the armature.
>>>
>>> I converted a corded B&D to cordless.  It uses 9 - 5 amphr 12 volt LA
>>> AGMs
>>> to power the mower.  It is enough to do a 7K square foot lawn.  What used
>>> to take me 1.5 hours to do when corded, now takes about 45 minutes.
>>>
>>> I use a 1.3 amphr AGM for the tripping a small contactor.  This battery
>>> goes down faster than the pack.  I would use about a 2 amphr battery for
>>> each hour the contactors are tripped.  That should give you plenty of
>>> cushion.
>>>
>>> I wrote a two part article for the Electric Auto Association's Current
>>> Events magazine.  I have the submittals in PDF format. The B&D motors are
>>> DC universal motors that operate at 120 volts.  The corded version has a
>>> full rectifier bridge on a little heat sink.  It was mainly a rewiring
>>> job
>>> to bypass the rectifier.
>>>
>>> I think the AGMs are the wrong type of battery for this project.
>>> Normally,
>>> when not cutting the lawn, the motor consumes about 4 amps.  When cutting
>>> thick grass, the motor consumes about 8 amps. It can spike to 10 amps in
>>> real thick grass or when the mower clogs up in thick grass.
>>>
>>> I have been contemplating upgrading this mower to Lithium.  A set of 40 -
>>> 3.2 volt 10 amphr would be about right for an hour's worth of cutting and
>>> still have some reserve.  I saw an ad for Shorai 12Volt 12 Amphr
>>> batteries
>>>   for $117 each and they weigh about 1.7 pounds.  My 5.0 amphr batteries
>>> weigh 3.5 pounds each for an added weight (starter + pack support +
>>> contactor) of 35 pounds onto a mower that weighs 47 pounds for a total of
>>> around 82 pounds.  This is about the weight of an ICE push mower.  Twelve
>>> Shorai batteries would be around 20 pounds.  The mower would be lighter
>>> and
>>> so would your wallet of $1400 plus shipping.
>>>
>>> I have thought about purchasing 4 - 100 amphr CALB batteries and then use
>>> a converter to step up the voltage to 120 volts.  At an efficiency of
>>> 85%,
>>> the amphrs to the motor would be about 8.5.  I am not sure if a converter
>>> could handle that much amperage.  I was going to do some more homework
>>> before asking the experts here. Four CALB batteries would be about 600
>>> dollars and a converter would run in the lower several hundreds.  The
>>> savings would be substantial but I am not sure if the electronics would
>>> handle the load.
>>>
>>> The other thought would be to run the 4 CALBs into an inverter and leave
>>> the rectifier bridge intact.  The inefficiency of the inverter plus the
>>> inefficiency of the rectifier bridge would likely sap the pack of a lot
>>> of
>>> useful energy.  I think this would be a nonstarter.
>>>
>>> I know of someone using a self contained electric mower.  You might want
>>> to shoot him an email at theadm *A*T* AOL.  If you are in the RTP area,
>>> we
>>> are both "local".
>>>
>>> Everyone else I see running an electric mower are running with a cord.
>>>  If
>>> you want me to, I will ask my neighbors their brand and opinions.
>>>
>>>
>>> On 4/28/2014 1:27 PM, Cal Frye wrote:
>>>
>>>  I'm on my second Black and Decker push mower, corded type. I have a
>>>> small lawn, so avoiding running over the cord is not a major problem. I
>>>> won't advise on motor or batteries, but I can say B&D has a plastic shim
>>>> in the stack of washers holding the blade to the motor shaft. Said shim
>>>> has raised edges which grip either side of the blade, and an opposing
>>>> pair of edges which grip in turn a keyed, square washer above the blade.
>>>> This square washer is driven by the motor, and the blade is driven by
>>>> the plastic shim. Hit too hard an obstacle, and the plastic edges shear
>>>> off and the blade rotates freely.
>>>>
>>>> This is effective, but is also a wear point, and I've learned to buy the
>>>> shims by the half-dozen. My eyes don't always find the rocks in the yard
>>>> before the blade does :-(
>>>>
>>>> Best regards,
>>>> -- Cal Frye, www.calfrye.com
>>>> /Be an Internet Sceptic/  Stop. Think. Connect.
>>>> www.stopthinkconnect.org - Be at least as safe on the
>>>> Internet as you are crossing the street!
>>>>
>>>> "I sincerely believe that banking establishments are more dangerous than
>>>> standing armies." -- Thomas Jefferson, letter to John Taylor.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>   Michael Ross <mailto:[email protected]>
>>>>
>>>>> April 28, 2014 12:58 PM
>>>>> I have an old simple ICE push mower, that might be worth converting.
>>>>>
>>>>> ...
>>>>> What about the shock of the blade hitting something nearly immobile?
>>>>> That
>>>>> is a lot of shock that small engines are able to handle - special
>>>>> consideration in the regard with electric motors?
>>>>>
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-- 
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