I agree on starting with a "needs new battery" type cordless mower.
I picked up a 36V WORX WG788 which also is supposed to have
"IntelliCut" which appears to be a hall sensor and magnet on the back
of the motor's axle, so the controller can regulate the power to the
motor for constant mowing speed, no matter the load.
Unfortunately this controller let the smoke out and I have considered
getting a cheap 36V eBike controller as well as just using the PM
motor directly on a new pack, but found that the inrush current is
quite significant so a controller or current limit of sorts is going to
be needed to avoid blowing things up.
However, my yard is so small that for the time being, I can easily
mow it with a real (reel-type) push mower, so the e-mower remains one
of the many projects waiting for time or another loving home.
I checked and the PM motor is fine, in case anybody is interested,
it is located in the south of the SF bay area, aka Silicon Valley.

Cor van de Water
Chief Scientist
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [email protected] Private: http://www.cvandewater.info
Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626


-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of Michael Ross
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2014 12:46 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Recommendations for push mower motor?

I have another battery from these people that seems just fine (after
taking
it apart to see inside)

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/24V-40AH-LiFePO4-Battery-Pack-El
ectric-Bicycle-electric-Scooter-bicycle-E-Bike-Lithium-Ion-Long-life/328
001_771068114.html

This one is 24V 40Ah LFP and weighs 9kg.  $500 including shipping BMS
and
charger. 3 to 7 day delivery and the met that. These that 18650 cells
with
welded straps for conducting the juice.

I think I will try to get a used 24V B&D instead of reworking my old
bottom
of the line MTD.

I think my wife would love to have an electric mower.  She hates asking
me
to start them for her.  It would be nice not having all the oil checking
and filling,   And as the current mower works - the rod knocking and
smoking.  We have an acre of mostly flat yard - 40Ah would go a long
ways
and the charge time is about 2 hours.


On Mon, Apr 28, 2014 at 3:25 PM, Peter Eckhoff <[email protected]>
wrote:

> Hello Mike,
>
> I'll second what Cal is saying below.  To get the nut off, you have to
> place a wrench on the nut and "impact" it until the nut loosens.  I
would
> **not** use a compressed air impactor tool.  I use my fist.  Be
careful
> because everything is free wheeling.  If you leave your knuckles in
the
> path of the blade, your knuckles are going to get whacked.  There is
no
> other place to place another wrench unless you weld a nut to the top
of the
> motor shaft.
>
> Like Cal, I keep a set of several "small plastic blade insulators" on
hand
> which is how they are described in the User's Manual.  The word
"insulator"
> may seem like a misnomer but it is to "insulate" the shock of hitting
a
> rock from damaging the armature.
>
> I converted a corded B&D to cordless.  It uses 9 - 5 amphr 12 volt LA
AGMs
> to power the mower.  It is enough to do a 7K square foot lawn.  What
used
> to take me 1.5 hours to do when corded, now takes about 45 minutes.
>
> I use a 1.3 amphr AGM for the tripping a small contactor.  This
battery
> goes down faster than the pack.  I would use about a 2 amphr battery
for
> each hour the contactors are tripped.  That should give you plenty of
> cushion.
>
> I wrote a two part article for the Electric Auto Association's Current
> Events magazine.  I have the submittals in PDF format. The B&D motors
are
> DC universal motors that operate at 120 volts.  The corded version has
a
> full rectifier bridge on a little heat sink.  It was mainly a rewiring
job
> to bypass the rectifier.
>
> I think the AGMs are the wrong type of battery for this project.
Normally,
> when not cutting the lawn, the motor consumes about 4 amps.  When
cutting
> thick grass, the motor consumes about 8 amps. It can spike to 10 amps
in
> real thick grass or when the mower clogs up in thick grass.
>
> I have been contemplating upgrading this mower to Lithium.  A set of
40 -
> 3.2 volt 10 amphr would be about right for an hour's worth of cutting
and
> still have some reserve.  I saw an ad for Shorai 12Volt 12 Amphr
batteries
>  for $117 each and they weigh about 1.7 pounds.  My 5.0 amphr
batteries
> weigh 3.5 pounds each for an added weight (starter + pack support +
> contactor) of 35 pounds onto a mower that weighs 47 pounds for a total
of
> around 82 pounds.  This is about the weight of an ICE push mower.
Twelve
> Shorai batteries would be around 20 pounds.  The mower would be
lighter and
> so would your wallet of $1400 plus shipping.
>
> I have thought about purchasing 4 - 100 amphr CALB batteries and then
use
> a converter to step up the voltage to 120 volts.  At an efficiency of
85%,
> the amphrs to the motor would be about 8.5.  I am not sure if a
converter
> could handle that much amperage.  I was going to do some more homework
> before asking the experts here. Four CALB batteries would be about 600
> dollars and a converter would run in the lower several hundreds.  The
> savings would be substantial but I am not sure if the electronics
would
> handle the load.
>
> The other thought would be to run the 4 CALBs into an inverter and
leave
> the rectifier bridge intact.  The inefficiency of the inverter plus
the
> inefficiency of the rectifier bridge would likely sap the pack of a
lot of
> useful energy.  I think this would be a nonstarter.
>
> I know of someone using a self contained electric mower.  You might
want
> to shoot him an email at theadm *A*T* AOL.  If you are in the RTP
area, we
> are both "local".
>
> Everyone else I see running an electric mower are running with a cord.
If
> you want me to, I will ask my neighbors their brand and opinions.
>
>
> On 4/28/2014 1:27 PM, Cal Frye wrote:
>
>> I'm on my second Black and Decker push mower, corded type. I have a
>> small lawn, so avoiding running over the cord is not a major problem.
I
>> won't advise on motor or batteries, but I can say B&D has a plastic
shim
>> in the stack of washers holding the blade to the motor shaft. Said
shim
>> has raised edges which grip either side of the blade, and an opposing
>> pair of edges which grip in turn a keyed, square washer above the
blade.
>> This square washer is driven by the motor, and the blade is driven by
>> the plastic shim. Hit too hard an obstacle, and the plastic edges
shear
>> off and the blade rotates freely.
>>
>> This is effective, but is also a wear point, and I've learned to buy
the
>> shims by the half-dozen. My eyes don't always find the rocks in the
yard
>> before the blade does :-(
>>
>> Best regards,
>> -- Cal Frye, www.calfrye.com
>> /Be an Internet Sceptic/  Stop. Think. Connect.
>> www.stopthinkconnect.org - Be at least as safe on the
>> Internet as you are crossing the street!
>>
>> "I sincerely believe that banking establishments are more dangerous
than
>> standing armies." -- Thomas Jefferson, letter to John Taylor.
>>
>>
>>
>>  Michael Ross <mailto:[email protected]>
>>> April 28, 2014 12:58 PM
>>> I have an old simple ICE push mower, that might be worth converting.
>>>
>>> ...
>>> What about the shock of the blade hitting something nearly immobile?
That
>>> is a lot of shock that small engines are able to handle - special
>>> consideration in the regard with electric motors?
>>>
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