Hi Gene, > > One of the first things I did to it was add a Shumatech DRO-350 which > > included adding a caliper to the quill. > > Once cnc is running it, you'll never note the quill caliper needs a > battery. My quill has been locked tight on the G0704 for years. Its just > automatic to look at the on-screen dro.
I haven't ever had to change batteries in the caliper scales. That's because I made little disks with capacitors and these are wired to the power supply and sit where the batteries were. So the scales run from the Shumatech DRO. I also have a spare DRO-350 and two of the newer 550s. One built and one still a kit. But the first one and the scales have been running for so long. It's really the DROs that have lowered the urgency of the CNC for the mill. Working from a drawing, which needs to be done regardless of whether G-Code is the ultimate product, I find other than for arcs the DRO gives me 0.0005" accuracy for drilling holes. The Shumatech can do bolt circles or I use a rotary table for repeatability if the part is round. These photos show that. http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/XAxisBearingClamp.jpg Now this could have been done on the mill with a boring bar. Even the outside could have been brought to the right diameter. And CNC is a no brainer there. But with the ELS setting the depth I had the time to grab the camera and shoot it while it was boring without worrying about bottoming out and breaking something. http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/XaxisBoringClearanceHole.jpg The holes that match the bearing clamp drilled on the rotary table were done with the Shumatech. Tedious but workable. > Nice shadow, right where you need it, not! > > I light from the side with a gooseneck, as I've found the head-on leds in > most colonoscopy cameras do nothing but add detail hiding glare to the > image, when I can get the ^%#& camera to work at all. My camera mounts > on a dovetail for remove and reinstall repeatability, on the bottom of a > spindle lock I made from 1/2" plate. I will add an LED lamp back into the housing of the original lamp. Project #42. I use a Nikon D800 for photos and Video. > You'll be able to lessen the belt reductions I see, by large amounts once > the ball screws are moving it. Probably. The X/Y motors are KL34-180-90 with 3200 RPM max. With 5 TPI screws that's 0.2" per rev and with 3:1 for the X and 4:1 for the Y I'd theoretically see 0.2"/3 (0.06667"/rev) for the X can go 213 ipm. The Y has 4:1 (0.05"/rev) or a max of 160 ipm. But it doesn't have the same travel as the X so end to end time will be roughly the same. And it has to move not only the X axis assembly but also the rotary assembly since this mill could have a horizontal mill attachment. I either case, unlikely I'd be milling anything at those speeds. > > There was room inside for an additional 24VAC relay that is placed in > > series with the existing ESTOP circuit. It's this relay that is > > managed by the PC ESTOP control simulating a mechanical activation of > > the ESTOP button. > > I've not addressed that yet. Do have a big red & yellow switch though. > Haven't found my round tuit since I was living in Rapid City in > the '60's. Here's the drawing of the original G3616 electrics along with the extra ESTOP relay added and use of the second set of NC contacts. Since these relays are all 24VAC it was easier to bring the second contact to the PC to signal ESTOP and use the ENABLE out from the PC to control the ESTOP relay. Any additional big red buttons can also be DPST (NC) and put in circuit with the RD/GN/BK/WH wires. http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/G3616_CNC_Wiring.pdf As long as I have a jumper or switch across the RD/BK it runs like it did from the factory. > > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/OutletBox-3D-1g.jpg > > Neat John. What SSR's contain that display? It's just a fancy circuit breaker that shows voltage and current. http://tiny.cc/ndgw4y > > I have a din-rail strip screwed to the rear edge of the 2x4x3/4 shelf > hanging off the ceiling to hold the electrics. Currently has a relay for > the spindle coolant pump mounted, and will have a 2nd relay to control a > 2nd power strip that everything for the mill is powered by including a > 5000 lumen 4 foot lamp over the top of the gantry, on the bottom of the > shelf. So the whole thing will light up when the machine is enabled. > Out of SSR's so a 12volt coil 4pdt relay I do have will have to do. My mill came with coolant but I've yet to use it. I will also mount one of those misters. I'll probably put a relay in series with the coolant switch and for CNC operations leave the pump switch ON. However an ESTOP requires the coolant switch be mechanically set back to off before power is restored (see drawing posted above). So I don't know yet what I'll do with all of that. > > The STMBL drive is in the top RH corner. That's for the 4th Axis > > Harmonic Drive which was an interesting diversion and has its own set > > of photos. > > I keep hearing about the STMBL. How is it different? Andy P. can probably describe the why it better than I can. He's the one who put me onto the Harmonic Drive. The kit of two boards already assembled weren't expensive. Heatsinks and fans also not. The drivers are no longer available but I bought enough before they were discontinued. What the STMBL can do is drive DC SERVOs, AC Induction, 3 Phase AC Servos. Open source. I'm running step/dir but it can also be run with MESA Smart Serial, Quadrature, and Serial. Doesn't yet support +/-10V https://github.com/rene-dev/stmbl Rene is working on a new driver board with a different device. > > > Still lots to do. More pictures as I make some progress. > > You work a lot neater than I do John. Thanks Gene. I'm still working and so I have to remain somewhat organized. As for the castings, I had the 1/2" > thick deck plate Added bearings to the old crossfeed crank boss that screws > into the front of the carriage and drive the x screw from that. Backlash > is about a thou now, was about 85 thou. If I didn't have the foundry I'd have done many things differently. But casting has that grunt-grunt man thing associated with it. >The remachining of the mt5 > taper in the spindle is a thou or maybe 2 out of whack because of that > effect when I was re-grinding the bend out of it. Makes the deep end of > it too big, and means I have to get downright brutal at tightening the > drawtube when I've got the ER40 adapter mounted. > That sucks. > For instance on the 6040, I knew I needed some overshoot stopping > distance for the y home switch. but I'd bought a huge bag of 4x4x2.5 > surface mount button switches, and there was zero room for a roller > lever there as the gantry can actually contact the front frame. So many innovative ways to mount switches. In the long run I want something that is coolant proof so I'll probably order NC proximity switches. But for now, this is what I've done with surplus DEC Printer roller switches. This is where I stopped 17MAY2018 last year. The switch is closed before the mechanical limit is reached. http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/RH_X_Switch2.jpg > The mister is sorta working, well enough I could do the end panels for > the interface box now, hopefully w/o breaking a tool because it clogged. > > With a 7i76D as the first bob in the box, and the 2nd CNC4PC C1G needing > a chipset, I still have quite a few leftover i/o's on the 7i76, so I > will probably remove the C1G, and move the i/o connector holes to the > other panel before I'm done. At the moment two parallel ports address all my needs. One option I have for my yet to be built tool changer and power draw bar is to use a product I built to plug onto the jumper header of my ELS. I also made it stand alone using a PIC processor and CAN ports. I've ported the Microchip CANopen library to it so I can run the 4 relays and read the 4 inputs via CANopen PDOs. Access to the RS232 port is also possible so I could control additional hardware that way. http://www.autoartisans.com/ELS/photos/IO_Interface-1.jpg I had 10 prototype boards made and one w/o processor went to the client on the back of the ELS with custom software. One I built up with processor and is in the photo. The other 8 are sitting there waiting to be populated as a CAN controlled I/O board. They have space for DC current sensors too. There are so many products on the Mesa Site I wouldn't even know where to begin. I've got the PMDX-126 intelligent BoB. It can be run via the USB or Ethernet SmoothStepper since both parallel ports are available as ribbon headers with MACH3/4. It would be simple to connect a Mesa SomethingOrOther two the two 26 pin headers and I wouldn't need to change any physical wiring. And once I build the toolchanger and power draw bar, a simple CAN bus and power connection to a different section of the machine is much cleaner than massive numbers of wires back to the central cabinet. > > Take care John You too Gene. John > -- > "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty: > soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order." > -Ed Howdershelt (Author) > Genes Web page <http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Emc-users mailing list > [email protected] > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
