Hi Gene, You're way ahead of me on wiring up limit switches. I'm also busy adding CNC to my mill which is the same as the now discontinued Grizzly G3616.
Here it is when it first arrived in 2007 and some of my pictures. http://www.autoartisans.com/milton.htm One of the first things I did to it was add a Shumatech DRO-350 which included adding a caliper to the quill. So I made a pattern and cast quill clamp. http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/QuillClamp.jpg The intention was to fasten a lot more stuff to it but so far it's only the scale. There's a photo later of it mounted to the switch box. Next, tired of hand cranking the knee with a poor fitting cast iron crank handle I poured some brackets, added angular contact bearings and spacers to remove the right angle bevel gear backlash and started with a 500oz-in motor and 3:1 reduction. Lousy speed. Just not quite enough torque with both rotary table and vise on the table. So up to a 950 oz-in motor, a Gecko driver and a linear supply of 60V. Now it's adequate. http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/Z-AxisPowerSupply.jpg And the drive. I used my ELS as the stepping controller to move the knee up and down. This was in 2011. http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/KneeDrive.jpg With the failure of the supplied light which I haven't yet rebuilt I whipped up a 3D printed collar and wired up some LEDs to a small LED controller and power supply http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/LampStuff2.jpg And at first it looked pretty good. http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/LEDLightTrial1.jpg But I didn't take into account the size of the drill chuck or tooling. http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/Shadow1.jpg So additional lighting is still going to be needed. But it was an interesting try. That was in 2016. The Y Axis was next. Again some castings and this time the HP-UHU Servo driver and a 100V Servo motor that tucks in nicely under the knee out of the way. Angular contact bearings keep the lead screw from moving. A ball screw conversion will be done after the CNC conversion is complete. http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/YAxisMachining-8s.jpg The X axis was the most work. I didn't have a large enough crucible to cast it one piece so I did the main mount in 2. The motor mount is the third http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/XAxisMounted1.jpg Now that I can move all three axis the electrical is the next part. The mill has two electrical boxes. One with the transformers and relays and a master switch. http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/G3616-ElectricalPanel1.jpg The second box holds the ESTOP (DPST, NC contacts, one not used). http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/DRO_SwitchBox.jpg There was room inside for an additional 24VAC relay that is placed in series with the existing ESTOP circuit. It's this relay that is managed by the PC ESTOP control simulating a mechanical activation of the ESTOP button. I decided to run the entire system from 220VAC so I could use the existing contactor to shut off power. But I wanted a circuit breaker for the electronics power and one for the CNC motors. So I 3D printed a box and mounted the units in that. http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/OutletBox-3D-1b.jpg Hard to get a good photo because it's on the back of the mill really close to the wall. The two 15A, 220VAC outlets are for the two separate circuits. http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/OutletBox-3D-1g.jpg And finally here's roughly what the BoB and control side looks like. Works off two parallel ports on the PC. http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/EverythingMounted.jpg The STMBL drive is in the top RH corner. That's for the 4th Axis Harmonic Drive which was an interesting diversion and has its own set of photos. Still lots to do. More pictures as I make some progress. John > Get that relay hooked up, the vfd swapped and tuned, the table cleaned up > and I'll take some pix for John Dammeyer. Sorta fugly, but I think its > working. :) > > Cheers, Gene Heskett > -- _______________________________________________ Emc-users mailing list [email protected] https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
