On 05/22/2013 02:35 PM, Gregg Eshelman wrote:
> I could try some of the high strength urethane resins I use to make 
> replicas of classic car light lenses. I do the casting in a pressure 
> tank so there's no bubbles. Of course I use mold release to keep the 
> resin from sticking to things I don't want it stuck to.

I'd stick to the acetal (aka Delrin).  Its physical properties are 
nearly ideal for forming nuts on threaded rod.  The harder formulations 
of urethane look hard, but I'd bet it'll wear quickly in this 
application and probably be a lot stickier so you'd need a lot of force 
to turn the threaded rod in the thread formed nut. There are ultra wear 
resistant versions of acetal that have PTFE (Teflon) in the mix.  These 
would probably be a good variation on that theme, but I'd avoid 
experimenting with other plastics unless you don't mind experiments with 
low probabilities of success.  You might get lucky, but I doubt you'd do 
better than the acetal family in this application.  If you still want to 
experiment, you might try UHMW.  I think it'd have a much better chance 
of producing a positive result than urethane.

Search for acetal at McMaster-Carr to see the different versions and buy 
it in small quantities.

I've been contemplating this method to eliminate most of the backlash in 
my cheap import milling machine.  I think it's now over .025" in the X 
and almost as bad in the Y.  I do the backlash compensation now, turning 
the wheels by hand for simple low tolerance work, but that backlash 
needs to be gone when I convert it to CNC later this summer.  I'll 
probably splurge on some Chinese ball screws.



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