Dave, a Racor 500 series is one upgrade I made for my Yanmar or would recommend 
on any engine. You can open it and check without losing any fuel or making a 
mess, and a clear bowl at the bottom lets you see if any crud is falling or if 
you have water in your fuel. I run a 30-micron filter in my Racor and a 
10-micron filter on the engine. It seems happy and has been running all night 
so far. We’re in the C&D Canal heading home to Newport for the summer. Looks 
like lots of motoring this trip, but the Eng is nicely purring along.
Andy
(ex C&C 40, Peregrine)
Baltic 47 Masquerade

Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI 
USA    02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On May 28, 2023, at 07:14, Dave S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Thanks Dennis,  nice shade-tree mechanical work!  Knowledge and preparation. 
>   It’s always interesting to understand the failure modes of things.  I’ve 
> intentionally kept my yanmar stock - stock fuel pump, single fuel filter, no 
> start relay.   It has had a few small fuel leaks and one electrical issue but 
> these have been age/maintenance related.  (Ie - cleaning corrosion from main 
> grounds, replacing a tired mechanical fuel pump, o-rings hardening etc.  I’ve 
> replaced hoses belts and impeller proactively, keep it spotless, and It’s 
> been pretty much bulletproof.  (Northern climate, fresh water)
> I do wonder about racor filters, and the various other ‘upgrades’.   Racors 
> seem to be the default upgrade, yet are often cited as a source of 
> problems/air leaks.     You mention the finicky gasket.   Thoughts? 
> 
> Dave 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On May 27, 2023, at 9:49 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> I brought Touche' back from Pensacola to its home slip on Lake Pontchartrain 
>> this week.  Overall a nice sail with fair winds and weather.
>> 
>> Had one glitch.  Here's an excerpt from the trip report I sent some of my 
>> sailing buddies.
>> 
>> Thursday we were motor sailing past Petit Bois Island, Mississippi.  We'd 
>> just crossed the Pascagoula Ship Channel.  Touche's engine quit.  Just quit. 
>>  No slowing down or whatever.  Just died.  WTF?  The engine is a Universal 
>> 25XPB with about 2000 hours on it.
>> 
>> First thing I did was open the cockpit locker and look at the vacuum gauge 
>> on the Racor 500MA fuel filter.  It was still in the yellow where it 
>> normally runs.  I pulled the top and checked the filter element anyway.  I 
>> looked fairly clean.  Next I investigated if the filter might have an air 
>> leak and the level had dropped below the discharge.  The filter was only 
>> about half full.  I keep a small jug of diesel for topping off the filter if 
>> need be.  I topped it off and put the filter element back in.  I inspected 
>> the filter lid o-ring and gasket.  The gasket is square and can get twisted. 
>> Both looked normal.  Buttoned up the filter and tried to start the engine.  
>> It would barely idle and died.
>> 
>> The engine has an electric fuel pump.  Okay, next we checked the pump.  I 
>> put my finger on the pump.  My buddy turned on the ignition and pressed the 
>> preheat button.  Normally an electric fuel pump goes "click, click, 
>> click....".  Only one click.  Aha!  Dead fuel pump.
>> 
>> The wind was good and we were still carrying 5 knots or so.  Fortunately, I 
>> had a spare fuel pump on board.  I spent about 1.5-2 hours changing it.  
>> Before I installed it, I checked it for operation by powering it up.  Yep.  
>> It went "click, click, click....".
>> 
>> Got the new pump installed and we're ready to fire it up.  My buddy turns on 
>> the ignition and hits the preheat button.  Nothing, zip, nada.  Even the 
>> audible alarm was silent.  Big WTF?? He notices that even the engine gauges 
>> aren't moving.  Hmmm.  No power to the panel??  He says his Yanmar has a 
>> fuse on the engine and he thinks Westerbeke/Universals may have a circuit 
>> breaker.  I grab the engine manual, pull up the wiring diagram.  It shows a 
>> 20 amp breaker.  Who knew?  But...where the heck is it?  After a bit of 
>> searching, I found it on the bracket where the fuel pump and some 
>> miscellaneous engine electrical components are.  I reach behind the panel, 
>> find the reset button and hear a click when I press it.  Okay.  We try the 
>> engine again and it fires right up.  Yay!  Good to go.  
>> 
>> That lasts about a minute.  It immediately dies again.  Crap!  I start the 
>> investigation again.  Open the cockpit locker to look at the vacuum gauge.  
>> Oh, what a dumbass!  I'd shut off the fuel valve to change the pump.  I 
>> opened the valve.  The engine fired up and away we went.  
>> 
>> All told, we only lost about an hour on our arrival time and avoided a large 
>> tow bill.
>> 
>> A bit of internet research later revealed that the $256 Westerbeke 39275 
>> fuel pump is really a Facet 40185N.  I found one on eBay for $76.  Same pump.
>> 
>> This mimics the tachometer/hourmeter replacement from a couple weeks ago.  
>> The Westerbeke part was $350.  I found the identical part made by Datcon 
>> from a hot rod shop for $150.  When I looked at the old one, it had the 
>> Datcon name and part number on it.
>> 
>> -- 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

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