I have the same problem waiting for warmer weather before painting my deck. In my case, the minimum temperature needs to be above 50 F.
In your case, the Keel surface needs to be above 40 degrees F but 50 is better for this stuff to cure properly. If it drops below that at night, the curing process stops until the temp rises again. You can easily heat the epoxy or filler in a bucket of warm water, but heating up a lead keel requires a tent and a heater and/or heat lamps. Cold weather is a good time to grind and sand cause you can wear all the protective clothing and tyvek suit and respirator and hood etc and not sweat. Take this time to research all the products available and watch their how-to videos. Collect your tools and epoxies and paint, etc. It's good to do some test batches of epoxy and fairing on a piece of scrap at home before working on the boat to build confidence. Chuck S > On 01/21/2021 10:46 PM Juliano Franz via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > > Hi Bob and Charles, > Thanks for the quick reply! It looks like my initial plan good. I'll go > clean the crack and apply gflex once she weather is warmer. For now all I can > do is dream a little. > > I'm in Halifax, NS on the east coast of Canada. > > Cheers > > On Thu., Jan. 21, 2021, 23:34 CHARLES SCHEAFFER, < cscheaf...@comcast.net > mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net > wrote: > > > > Congrats on the boat. Where are you located? > > > > That's the smile mentioned. The broken teeth is just filler or > > fairing material that broke off. I've seen much worse. > > > > You can use an angle grinder with an 80 grit flap disc (40 grit if > > you have skills) to gently remove the high spots and loose stuff and expose > > the joint. Be careful as the more material you remove, the more you have > > to fill/fair. Fill the actual joint with GFlex or Thixo Flex from > > Jamestown Distributers and smooth with a flexible spreader, then after it > > cures, sand the area, wipe the dust off with Acetone or Zylene and fair > > with Total Fair from Jamestowndistributers. It's an easy to mix and easy > > to sand, waterproof, compound. > > > > There are many videos on YouTube showing how. > > > > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 34R, Pasadena Md > > > > > > > > > > > > > On 01/21/2021 9:47 PM Juliano Franz via > > CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: > > > > > > > > > Hi all, > > > My first time messaging the list. > > > > > > A couple of months ago I came by a C&C 25 that was neglected > > > (aka abandoned) for a couple of years on the hard. I am new to boat > > > onwing and have been learning a lot on how to get her ready following > > > Casey's "This old boat" and some youtube channels. > > > > > > There is a crack (?) on the keel hull joint that I am not > > > sure how to tackle. It is not really a smile, maybe some broken teeth? =] > > > Here is a photo of it (damage is the same on both sides) > > > https://bit.ly/3p9EsRT > > > Going over the variety of "smile repairs" there is one that > > > seems like a good option for me: G/Flex, sand, bottom paint. Can anyone > > > share their wisdom with me on this idea? > > > > > > Thanks all! > > > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list > > > to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the > > > list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > Thanks - Stu > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to > > help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list > > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > > - Stu >
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
