Hi mike
I appreciate your input
I’m hiring a professional that I’m going to help to reduce the cost
It not leaking inside
But there 30% humidity Between layers on 80% on the top deck is like that
and also the cockpit is wet
Should I install longer or bigger drain in the cockpit
The history of the boat was well cared when in use but been sitting to long
in the sun
So there lots of cracks
I’ll watch your videos
Or give me a call or text 1 905 818-1336

On Wed, Aug 12, 2020 at 9:12 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi John
>
>
>
> Am assuming that you are replacing wet or rotten balsa core.  If that is
> the case then please read on.
>
>
>
> Lots of experience on this list how to do this.  You can do the job from
> the top or you can alternatively do this from the bottom.  There are pros
> and cons to each approach.  From the bottom you do not affect the top
> gelcoat and non skid which is a big bonus.  However from the bottom is more
> difficult and requires a bit more precision and experience IMO and usually
> you would need to have a vacuum bagging kit (available from West Marine).
> From the top you have gravity working for you rather than against you, all
> areas are far more accessible and the overall job is simpler.  I have
> always approached from the top.
>
>
>
> From the top you can either remove and reuse the top skin to mostly retain
> your non-skid pattern or you can rebuild the top layer with epoxy or
> polyester (fibreglass) and then paint with a product such as Interdeck or
> Kiwi Grip.  You can also roll on gelcoat to build up a texture if that is
> your preference.  Either from the top, the bottom, paint or gelcoat it will
> look good.
>
>
>
> If you can stick to non-skid areas the job is much easier.  Non-skid vs
> regular gloss gelcoat is like Matt finish vs gloss finish in varnish and
> paint.  Gloss shows off imperfections much more readily than matt.
>
>
>
> I have replaced core material in large sections around chain plates of our
> former Niagara 26 (built the same as C&Cs of your generation and by the
> same person) as well as cockpit floor on that boat and 14 different deck
> and cockpit sections on our former J27 Nut Case.  I have always done from
> the top as I was shown how to do by a boat builder who routinely repaired
> decks on C&C 30s mark 1 for resale as well as C&C 27s and other boats.
>
>
>
> The project has been documented on our web site www.hoytsailing.com  At
> the bottom of the page click on the J27 Nut Case web site link and on that
> page look at projects.
>
>
>
> I hope this helps a bit
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> www.hoytsailing.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> *On Behalf Of *Joel
> Delamirande via CnC-List
> *Sent:* August 11, 2020 8:52 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Joel Delamirande <joel.delamira...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Redo top deck mk1 30
>
>
>
> Good afternoon sailors
>
> It seems I’m not going sailing this year
>
> Anyone in my area I can jump aboard
>
> To keep the love of sailing
>
>
>
> Here my  question
>
> After ripping the bad Fiberglass and redoing back to where it at
>
> Is better to paint the boat or finish with gelcoat
>
> Anyone has done that in the past?
>
> Any pro and cons
>
> Is there one that last more the other?
>
> Also in the cockpit instead of two little drain
>
> Is it better to put a bigger or longer drain at the door?
>
> Has cnc made better drain in younger models
>
> ?
>
> Joël
>
> Whistler 2 mk1 30 1973
>
> --
>
> Joel Delamirande
>
> *www.jdroofing.ca <http://www.jdroofing.ca>*
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca <http://www.jdroofing.ca>*
_______________________________________________

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