That’s ok too. Boats are boats. Whatever you like. Do it. It’s a passion sometimes. If she floats and looks good after 40 plus years good On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 6:08 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> “That is exactly how the job should be done.” > > Perhaps. > > I’m going to keep my thoughts confined to hulls that are sprayed, not > roll-and-tipped. > > I’ve found that there are varying degrees of paint jobs done to boats. > This I’ve learned from having my hull painted and from painting the > topsides myself and in many conversations with pros. > > Some owners will have a “simple” paint job where the existing gelcoat or > older paint is sanded for adhesion, small dings repaired and then a > high-build primer applied and sanded. From there a topcoat is applied. > Simple, effective and quick. This keeps the overall costs down, clearly. > Oft times items like print-through, dimpling and highs spots are still > apparent. > > Some paint jobs have the entire boat sanded (paint or gelcoat), repaired > and faired, generally with a quality orbital sander. From there multiple > layers of primers are shot, sanded fair, shot again and sanded again. > Afterwards the topcoat is applied. I’ve found that many painters prefer to > use acrylic urethane paints as opposed to polyester urethane because it > flows out well, has a high gloss and most importantly, can be > sanded/polished to remove orange peel, runs and overspray. Final results > are very, very nice. > > Where pricing starts to head for the stratosphere is when the second > scenario is combined with fairing the entire hull. Long board sanding. This > takes a lot of time and soft and hard primers. Dry guide coats between > primer shots to identify scratches, low spots and the quality of the > fairing work. Only when all surfaces are smooth and perfectly fair is the > topcoat applied. > > Although I pulled all the hardware except the toe-rail when I repainted > the decks myself, I would think long and hard about doing that again. > Rick makes very good points for just taping around hardware. There are > issues of paint longevity and peeling because of moisture though. > > Because I tend to “gild the lily” I was fine with pulling the hardware. It > also allowed me to “upgrade” the look by adding gloss relief around > winches, stanchion bases and deck fittings as opposed to the stock paint > job which was 90% non-skid with hardware bolted over top. Have I mentioned > “gilding the lily”? > > For those interested, the cost of painting the hull of “Ronin” was > $400/foot. > > So, I have a old Mako 261 that is long in the tooth and someday will get a > complete topsides, cockpit and hull paint. I will be doing the scenario > mention at the beginning. ;-) > > Regards, > Dave Godwin > 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin > Reedville - Chesapeake Bay > Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> > > P.S. Rob Ball, thanks for designing a boat that makes all the effort and > expense worthwhile... > > On Jun 13, 2020, at 3:27 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > That’s exactly how the job should be done. > > On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 3:51 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> To me "Topsides" is from the water line up to the toerail/gunnel - so it >> is the sides and stern of the boat. Bottom paint goes on the bottom (which >> in my case ends about an inch or so above the actual waterline). The deck >> is the deck. >> >> My topside paint job included painting the stern, the cove strip, the C&C >> stars & daggers, and the boot stripe (which is actually 3 stripes of >> decreasing width from about 4" above the waterline) all painted in red >> Alexseal. The rest of the hull was painted off white before the red >> portions were added. Yes, they removed the hardware (essentially the bow >> lights, stern lights, rear boarding step, and the boarding ladder and >> reinstalled after the paint job. They also removed and replaced the decals >> for the boat name and logos on each quarter and the hail port and yacht >> club decals on the transom. I purchased the decals myself. >> >> Since someone asked about the deck, I had that repainted, too. >> >> I had a soft spot in the core of the cockpit aft of the helm. Probably >> 12-14 square feet of core needed to be replaced. The outer skin was >> removed, the old core removed, the inner skin raised back up to make the >> deck surface level after the job was done, new core was installed (on my 38 >> there was actually a layer of balsa and a layer of plywood that totaled at >> least 3/4 inch thick), and the old skin was glassed back in place. Repair >> of the soft spot became the driver for repainting the deck. >> >> We used off white Interdeck (Interdeck with non-skid additive on the >> non-skid areas). The only hardware removed was the hand rails, the Nicro >> power vents, and the hardware for the dodger. Windlass, winches, genoa >> tracks, rope clutches, the base of the radar arch, radar pole, etc (da*n >> there is a lot of deck hardware) were all masked and painted around. My >> person attitude about removing the hardware is along the lines of "If the >> core under the hardware is sound and there is no leak, why remove and rebed >> the hardware - and risk a new leak - just to put pretty paint where no one >> will ever see it?" I'd need to look up the cost of painting the deck, not >> including the core repair in the cockpit, if anyone is interested. >> >> Rick Brass >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. 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