“That is exactly how the job should be done.” Perhaps.
I’m going to keep my thoughts confined to hulls that are sprayed, not roll-and-tipped. I’ve found that there are varying degrees of paint jobs done to boats. This I’ve learned from having my hull painted and from painting the topsides myself and in many conversations with pros. Some owners will have a “simple” paint job where the existing gelcoat or older paint is sanded for adhesion, small dings repaired and then a high-build primer applied and sanded. From there a topcoat is applied. Simple, effective and quick. This keeps the overall costs down, clearly. Oft times items like print-through, dimpling and highs spots are still apparent. Some paint jobs have the entire boat sanded (paint or gelcoat), repaired and faired, generally with a quality orbital sander. From there multiple layers of primers are shot, sanded fair, shot again and sanded again. Afterwards the topcoat is applied. I’ve found that many painters prefer to use acrylic urethane paints as opposed to polyester urethane because it flows out well, has a high gloss and most importantly, can be sanded/polished to remove orange peel, runs and overspray. Final results are very, very nice. Where pricing starts to head for the stratosphere is when the second scenario is combined with fairing the entire hull. Long board sanding. This takes a lot of time and soft and hard primers. Dry guide coats between primer shots to identify scratches, low spots and the quality of the fairing work. Only when all surfaces are smooth and perfectly fair is the topcoat applied. Although I pulled all the hardware except the toe-rail when I repainted the decks myself, I would think long and hard about doing that again. Rick makes very good points for just taping around hardware. There are issues of paint longevity and peeling because of moisture though. Because I tend to “gild the lily” I was fine with pulling the hardware. It also allowed me to “upgrade” the look by adding gloss relief around winches, stanchion bases and deck fittings as opposed to the stock paint job which was 90% non-skid with hardware bolted over top. Have I mentioned “gilding the lily”? For those interested, the cost of painting the hull of “Ronin” was $400/foot. So, I have a old Mako 261 that is long in the tooth and someday will get a complete topsides, cockpit and hull paint. I will be doing the scenario mention at the beginning. ;-) Regards, Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> P.S. Rob Ball, thanks for designing a boat that makes all the effort and expense worthwhile... > On Jun 13, 2020, at 3:27 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > That’s exactly how the job should be done. > > On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 3:51 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: > To me "Topsides" is from the water line up to the toerail/gunnel - so it is > the sides and stern of the boat. Bottom paint goes on the bottom (which in my > case ends about an inch or so above the actual waterline). The deck is the > deck. > > My topside paint job included painting the stern, the cove strip, the C&C > stars & daggers, and the boot stripe (which is actually 3 stripes of > decreasing width from about 4" above the waterline) all painted in red > Alexseal. The rest of the hull was painted off white before the red portions > were added. Yes, they removed the hardware (essentially the bow lights, stern > lights, rear boarding step, and the boarding ladder and reinstalled after the > paint job. They also removed and replaced the decals for the boat name and > logos on each quarter and the hail port and yacht club decals on the > transom. I purchased the decals myself. > > Since someone asked about the deck, I had that repainted, too. > > I had a soft spot in the core of the cockpit aft of the helm. Probably 12-14 > square feet of core needed to be replaced. The outer skin was removed, the > old core removed, the inner skin raised back up to make the deck surface > level after the job was done, new core was installed (on my 38 there was > actually a layer of balsa and a layer of plywood that totaled at least 3/4 > inch thick), and the old skin was glassed back in place. Repair of the soft > spot became the driver for repainting the deck. > > We used off white Interdeck (Interdeck with non-skid additive on the non-skid > areas). The only hardware removed was the hand rails, the Nicro power vents, > and the hardware for the dodger. Windlass, winches, genoa tracks, rope > clutches, the base of the radar arch, radar pole, etc (da*n there is a lot of > deck hardware) were all masked and painted around. My person attitude about > removing the hardware is along the lines of "If the core under the hardware > is sound and there is no leak, why remove and rebed the hardware - and risk a > new leak - just to put pretty paint where no one will ever see it?" I'd need > to look up the cost of painting the deck, not including the core repair in > the cockpit, if anyone is interested. > > Rick Brass
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