Fred- A couple years ago I had an issue with my HX. Once I had it off,
Walkie was able to pressure test it for me. That was in the middle of the
winter and he didn’t have much going on. I don’t know what other options you
have or if you’ve talked to him?
It sounds like you’re going to purge all your anti freeze. What’s your choice
to replace?
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On Fri, Aug 9, 2019 at 2:48 PM -0500, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List"
<[email protected]> wrote:
Bob — with the Sendure after-market cooling system, you end up with two pumps:
the stock Yanmar pump on the engine which on my boat currently pumps coolant;
and the add-on pump that on my boat currently pumps lake water. I would
basically be bypassing the Sendure system with the add-on pump and heat
exchanger, and converting back to the stock raw-water cooled system. In my
case, that would be cold Lake Superior fresh water, so I’m not too worried
about engine temp.
This is how many C&C’s were delivered from the factory; with no coolant system,
just raw seawater.
— Fred
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
On Aug 9, 2019, at 2:39 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <[email protected]>
wrote:
Fred:
What is going to make the seawater circulate through the engine? Are you going
to the raw water pump to circulate seawater through the engine’s cavity? I
would think that the volume of seawater circulated would need to be greater
than the antifreeze/water mixture normally in the closed cooling system since
it is less efficient in heat exchange but there may be enough seawater that
would be pumped by the raw water pump. You might find that the temperarture
will run a little higher than normal.
On Aug 9, 2019, at 2:04 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
<[email protected]> wrote:
Hello, all — I’ve got a 1979 LF38 with the original Yanmar 3QM diesel, fitted
with a Sendure fresh-water exchanger kit (also original).
Over the last season or so, I’ve been noticing a slow but accelerating drop in
the coolant level. In the last month, it has sped up quite a lot. It’s not
getting into the oil, and the head gasket is relatively new. With the recent
acceleration, there’s also a lot of white smoke (steam) in the exhaust as well.
I’m thinking the heat exchanger may have developed a leak (or leaks) between
the fresh and raw water sides. I’m going to pull it this weekend and test it
to see if that’s the case. I am also going to replace ALL coolant hoses (fresh
and raw, including the loops to the water heater and the v-drive). I ordered
50 feet of 1/2” and 3/4” Gates green-stripe (off Amazon) to keep costs lower
per foot and make sure I have enough; this may also allow me to perform a
temporary fix in case the exchanger is toast, by completely bypassing the
Sendure system and effectively making the engine raw-water cooled until I can
decide what to do with the exchanger. This would also allow me to go on an
extended weekend cruise next weekend without worry. BTW, so that I don’t have
to try to size new belts for the engine, I’ll leave the add-on coolant pump in
place, but remove the impeller and just let it freewheel for the temporary fix
(with no hoses connected). It’s fairly new, I replaced it a few years ago.
Anyone see any downsides to this plan; or any other places I can look for the
missing coolant? 🙂
— Fred
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
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