Agreed with Andrew and Josh, none of those jobs are worth paying shop rates 
for, and would add that it may also be worthwhile to verify that the main 
engine ground stud and its terminals are free from corrosion, protected, and 
tight. This caused an intermittent tach on windstar, among other things.  Enjoy.

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 25, 2019, at 9:32 PM, Andrew Burton <a.burton.sai...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Don’t be intimidated! None of that stuff is particularly technical. I 
> recommend you start out doing what you know you can and move on from there. 
> The tach wiring would be most likely to throw me for a loop, but that lies 
> within your area. 
> The next is the exhaust hose, which probably falls squarely in the pain in 
> the...neck category but I assume, requires little more than an ability to 
> squirm into odd places.
> If you’re going to replace one mount, you might as well replace them all. 
> Measure where the mounts are set—their heights above the engine bed— so you 
> can get the new mounts nearly in the same place. Loosen the top nut and 
> remove the bolts to the coupler and jack the engine up in the front, replace 
> the mounts and then do the rear. Inflate a soccer ball to jack the engine up.
> The rest is mostly cleaning and just replacing parts. Do what you can and if 
> you need help find out the best guy around with a wrench and then stand over 
> him while he works and be his helper.
> Best of luck! I’ve always loved the 44.
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 139 Tuckerman Ave
> Middletown, RI 
> USA    02842
> 
> www.burtonsailing.com
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
>> On Jul 25, 2019, at 18:52, Patrick Gateley via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi listers,
>> 
>> My wife and I recently acquired "Odessa", a 1988 C&C 44 and we are going 
>> over the mechanical inspection / survey recs.  They are as follows:
>> 
>>> RECOMMENDATIONS FROM MECHANICAL INSPECTION:
>>> Replace seal washer on transmission dipstick.
>>> Port rear mount should be replaced in near future due to extent of rust, 
>>> most likely has caused delamination of rubber pucks.
>>> Replace anti siphon valve with a Vetus type that has a hose spigot 
>>> connection to allow any leaking water to run into the bilge.
>>> Clean and repaint air canister.
>>> Tachometer sender terminals and wiring need further cleaning and or 
>>> replacing.
>>> Now that the tachometer is functioning, the boat should be taken out on sea 
>>> trial to determine maximum rpm. On this engine it should be 3600, if hull. 
>>> Nd propeller are clean.
>>> Replaced cracked raw water intake hose.
>>> Secure loose batteries and replace all wing nuts with hex type nuts.
>>> Clean and repaint the engine as best as possible to preserve its condition
>>> 
>>> 
>>> RECOMMENDATIONS FROM SURVEY:
>>> Auxiliary engine exhaust hose in the port aft cockpit locker shows moderate 
>>> chafe from contact with transom fitting fasteners. Hose section between FRP 
>>> elbow/riser and transom discharge to renew. Ensure any corroded hose clamps 
>>> are replaced. Urge better support for FRP riser elbow.
>>> Fuel tank shut-off valve was moist/fuel stained at time of inspection. To 
>>> clean and inspect for possible weeping connections.
>>> Manual bilge pump in cockpit does not appear operative. Pump to service and 
>>> repair.
>> 
>> I'm a pretty handy individual but my expertise is primarily electrical.  I'm 
>> wondering which of these would be best done myself, and which I should hire 
>> out.  We're fortunate enough to have Gallery Marine just a few blocks from 
>> our marina here in Seattle so I'm sure they'd be happy to do some of this 
>> ($135/hr though).
>> 
>> Thanks in advance for your input,
>> 
>> Patrick & Kari Gateley
>> "Odessa" 1988 C&C 44
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