I've taken the mast down, had the bolt tightened...now I am going to find
time to fix the "smile"...

On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 3:58 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Do the whole fix, not just cosmetic, you will be happier next season
>
> On Mon, Jun 24, 2019 at 3:52 PM General Gao via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I've spoken to the yard and decided to take the mast down to tighten all
>> the bolts, then I will do the cosmetic fix.
>>
>> This will also give me a chance to inspect the mast, hopefully no
>> surprises there!
>>
>> I find that my radio seems to have very short range, the cable and the
>> antenna may have been the original, should I consider changing the cable
>> and antenna?
>>
>> Thank you.
>>
>> On Sun, Jun 23, 2019 at 11:54 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Also check the mast step (under the cast plate which the mast sits on),
>>> as the previous owner of our '74 35 mk2 said that it was an oak block which
>>> had rotted away, and resulted in the forward most keel studs not holding
>>> torque on the keel. He dug it out and poured concrete in place of the
>>> block, with a stainless pipe through it for drainage. This was in 2003, and
>>> when I hauled her this spring, there was no sign of movement at the keel
>>> joint, although I did choose to epoxy over the joint instead of replacing
>>> the flexible sealant he had used.
>>> --
>>> Shawn Wright
>>> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>>> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
>>> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jun 23, 2019 at 8:28 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Looks very similar to what i repaired on my 35 MKII using a very
>>>> similar procedure to that described by Dennis Connor. Yes there is 1 keel
>>>> bolt under the mast and yes torque the nuts to the specs listed on the  cnc
>>>> photoalbum site for the 35 MKII as the first step. Also replace the backing
>>>> plates and bedding compound. Drill and tap holes in each new backing plate
>>>> to provide a covenient means to connect ground wires while you are at it.
>>>> Grind out the crack and grind the sump down past the gelcoat for about 3
>>>> inches up and clean the lead keel down to bare metal. Blow the grinding
>>>> debris fro the crack, wash all surface with acetone and apply a layer of
>>>> non thickened West System epoxy to the cleaned and dried sufaces with a
>>>> small wire brush. Then use thicked epoxy putty to fill the gap level and
>>>> immediately apply a layer of glass matt just wide enough to cove the gap
>>>> and smooth that out to release any entrapped air. Then lay on more
>>>> thickened epoxy and apply a layer of glass matt about 2 inches wide and
>>>> smooth out as before. Then another layer of thickened epoxy andglass matt 3
>>>> to 4 inches wide sooth out as for the others and then one more layer about
>>>> 4 inches wideand amooth out covering with thickened epoxy. Grind the cured
>>>> product to remove obvious bumps and then fsir to a smooth surface with
>>>> lightweight auto body filler or other fairing compound. Prime and apply
>>>> bottom paint. I will send you a photo of my result if you wish.
>>>>
>>>> On Sun, Jun 23, 2019 at 11:01 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> That looks like it could have resulted from the combined effect of
>>>>> loose bolts AND a grounding event.  I definitely think it needs additional
>>>>> attention.
>>>>>
>>>>> I would do the "normal" repair.  Tighten/check tight the keel bolts,
>>>>> excavate, fill, glass(maybe), fair.
>>>>>
>>>>> Have you had a chance to investigate for water ingress around any of
>>>>> the bolts?  Can you or has anybody done a structural inspection?  What
>>>>> happens during a grounding is that when going forward the keel acts as a
>>>>> lever arm and crushes into the hull at the trailing edge of the keel.
>>>>> Compression damage to both the hull and keel may be evident in this area.
>>>>>
>>>>> Some people suggest to use the flexible material to fill the gap
>>>>> because the keel is likely to flex when heel over, is that a perception or
>>>>> a fact?
>>>>>
>>>>> Original construction used a layer of 5200, 4200, or butyl tape on the
>>>>> joint.  The joint was then faired with a low density fairing compound.
>>>>> Often times what owners see is years of bottom paint and the fairing
>>>>> material chipping out in a straight line that extends from leading edge to
>>>>> trailing edge on both sides.  This is a typical smile.  Sometimes it is
>>>>> natural and unavoidable cantilever flexing.  Sometimes it is loose-ish
>>>>> bolts that allow for the cantilever flex.  Yes, instead of a low density
>>>>> fairing compound a tougher material is in order.  Notice I didn't say
>>>>> stronger or harder.  Toughness is the opposite of brittle.  IMO the west
>>>>> systems G-Flex line of products fits this description.  If I was in need 
>>>>> of
>>>>> dropping the keel I would probably still use 5200 to seal the joint but
>>>>> then simply fill with G-Flex as described in the article that I linked
>>>>> previously.
>>>>>
>>>>> Also, do you need to raise the mast to tighten the bolt? I am under
>>>>> the impression that one bolt is hidden under the mast.
>>>>>
>>>>> I had 2 bolts under the foot of my mast (C&C 37+).  You should
>>>>> probably expect at least one.  You may be able to engineer a mechanism for
>>>>> tightening the bolt without pulling the mast but ultimately I think you
>>>>> will spend more time and money.  Just coordinate with the yard to use 
>>>>> their
>>>>> travel lift  to haul and block the boat in preparation for the repairs.
>>>>> Make sure that they can reach the mast with their crane.  Once the lift
>>>>> sets the boat on the keel arrange for the crane to lift the mast.  It
>>>>> doesn't have to be removed - just lifted a foot or two.  Of course there
>>>>> are lots of maintenance items that you could coordinate during a complete
>>>>> mast removal.
>>>>>
>>>>> My yard is saying I need to do all this in travel lift, is this
>>>>> necessary?
>>>>>
>>>>> Yes, the weight of the boat should be compressing the joint while
>>>>> tightening the bolts.  Some listers have argued that the amount of tension
>>>>> created by a single bolt at the correct torque exceeds the weight of the
>>>>> keel many times over.  I say, if you need to get to the bolt under the 
>>>>> mast
>>>>> anyway and you need to fill and fair and paint the keel anyway then you
>>>>> need the travel lift.  If you wanted to experiment or practice on the
>>>>> accessible bolts while the boat was in the water then it is unlikely that
>>>>> you would harm anything.
>>>>>
>>>>> Preparation is going to be the key to an expeditious repair.  There
>>>>> are lots of tools and correct sized sockets needed as well as a yard that
>>>>> has the ability and willingness to coordinate with you for the use of 
>>>>> their
>>>>> equipment.  I haven't even touched on the tools, equipment, and 
>>>>> consumables
>>>>> needed for the fill, fair, and paint.
>>>>>
>>>>> Keep the questions coming.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Good luck,
>>>>>
>>>>> Josh Muckley
>>>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>>>> Solomons, MD
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sun, Jun 23, 2019, 9:12 AM General Gao via CnC-List <
>>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> It turns out my email last night was rejected due to size. Here is
>>>>>> the link to the picture of "my smile"...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4sBNcSIFFFGYkRPU1IxNFdSbHhEUUFoZjZnVVZOSV9mMlM4/view?usp=sharing
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thank you guys for sharing the information. It is very much
>>>>>> appreciated. My email last night had two questions:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Some people suggest to use the flexible material to fill the gap
>>>>>> because the keel is likely to flex when heel over, is that a perception 
>>>>>> or
>>>>>> a fact?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Also, do you need to raise the mast to tighten the bolt? I am under
>>>>>> the impression that one bolt is hidden under the mast.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Seems to have been answered by you already.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> My yard is saying I need to do all this in travel lift, is this
>>>>>> necessary?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thank you again!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Sun, Jun 23, 2019 at 6:19 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
>>>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I have a 35 MKII and i repaired the smile on my boat pretty much the
>>>>>>> same way as Dennis described.  However i only repaired the forward end 
>>>>>>> of
>>>>>>> the smile back for about 2 feet on each side. I did that 1 full year 
>>>>>>> ago so
>>>>>>> the boat has experienced only one winter of freeze/thaw cycles here in 
>>>>>>> Nova
>>>>>>> Scotia and a full season of sailing. No smile any longer on the boat 
>>>>>>> but a
>>>>>>> big smile on my face...mission accomplished
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Sun, Jun 23, 2019 at 1:02 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>>>>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I wanted to share this article with you in my previous email but
>>>>>>>> forgot.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=drivesdk
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Josh Muckley
>>>>>>>> S /V Sea Hawk
>>>>>>>> 1989 C&C 37 +
>>>>>>>> Solomons, MD
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Sat, Jun 22, 2019, 9:51 PM General Gao via CnC-List <
>>>>>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Hi,
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I am a new C&C 35 Mk2 owner, and I am a new owner of a sailboat in
>>>>>>>>> general. The yard is telling me the "smile" on my boat is a bit 
>>>>>>>>> excessive.
>>>>>>>>> Sailors on the Sailnet suggested me to post my question on here to 
>>>>>>>>> get more
>>>>>>>>> accurate suggestions. So here I am.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Some people suggest me to tighten the bolt, or even drop the keel
>>>>>>>>> to fix it for the long term; some suggested it is just appearance and 
>>>>>>>>> no
>>>>>>>>> structural concern, and "filling" or "patching" the smile is part of
>>>>>>>>> regular annual maintenance for this boat.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I am seeking advice from people with experience on this model or
>>>>>>>>> similar C&C boat in construction (solid FG hull and swing back keel).
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> What would you recommend?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Thank you in advance.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Bo
>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>>
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>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>>
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>>>>>>>> --
>>>>>>> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.
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>>>>>>> list
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>>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.
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>>>>>> list
>>>>>> - use PayPal to send contribution --
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>>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.
>>>>> Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
>>>>> list
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>>>> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>
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>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
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>>> _______________________________________________
>>
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> Sent from Gmail Mobile
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