I've spoken to the yard and decided to take the mast down to tighten all the bolts, then I will do the cosmetic fix.
This will also give me a chance to inspect the mast, hopefully no surprises there! I find that my radio seems to have very short range, the cable and the antenna may have been the original, should I consider changing the cable and antenna? Thank you. On Sun, Jun 23, 2019 at 11:54 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Also check the mast step (under the cast plate which the mast sits on), as > the previous owner of our '74 35 mk2 said that it was an oak block which > had rotted away, and resulted in the forward most keel studs not holding > torque on the keel. He dug it out and poured concrete in place of the > block, with a stainless pipe through it for drainage. This was in 2003, and > when I hauled her this spring, there was no sign of movement at the keel > joint, although I did choose to epoxy over the joint instead of replacing > the flexible sealant he had used. > -- > Shawn Wright > shawngwri...@gmail.com > S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35 > https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto > > > On Sun, Jun 23, 2019 at 8:28 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Looks very similar to what i repaired on my 35 MKII using a very similar >> procedure to that described by Dennis Connor. Yes there is 1 keel bolt >> under the mast and yes torque the nuts to the specs listed on the cnc >> photoalbum site for the 35 MKII as the first step. Also replace the backing >> plates and bedding compound. Drill and tap holes in each new backing plate >> to provide a covenient means to connect ground wires while you are at it. >> Grind out the crack and grind the sump down past the gelcoat for about 3 >> inches up and clean the lead keel down to bare metal. Blow the grinding >> debris fro the crack, wash all surface with acetone and apply a layer of >> non thickened West System epoxy to the cleaned and dried sufaces with a >> small wire brush. Then use thicked epoxy putty to fill the gap level and >> immediately apply a layer of glass matt just wide enough to cove the gap >> and smooth that out to release any entrapped air. Then lay on more >> thickened epoxy and apply a layer of glass matt about 2 inches wide and >> smooth out as before. Then another layer of thickened epoxy andglass matt 3 >> to 4 inches wide sooth out as for the others and then one more layer about >> 4 inches wideand amooth out covering with thickened epoxy. Grind the cured >> product to remove obvious bumps and then fsir to a smooth surface with >> lightweight auto body filler or other fairing compound. Prime and apply >> bottom paint. I will send you a photo of my result if you wish. >> >> On Sun, Jun 23, 2019 at 11:01 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> That looks like it could have resulted from the combined effect of loose >>> bolts AND a grounding event. I definitely think it needs additional >>> attention. >>> >>> I would do the "normal" repair. Tighten/check tight the keel bolts, >>> excavate, fill, glass(maybe), fair. >>> >>> Have you had a chance to investigate for water ingress around any of the >>> bolts? Can you or has anybody done a structural inspection? What happens >>> during a grounding is that when going forward the keel acts as a lever arm >>> and crushes into the hull at the trailing edge of the keel. Compression >>> damage to both the hull and keel may be evident in this area. >>> >>> Some people suggest to use the flexible material to fill the gap because >>> the keel is likely to flex when heel over, is that a perception or a fact? >>> >>> Original construction used a layer of 5200, 4200, or butyl tape on the >>> joint. The joint was then faired with a low density fairing compound. >>> Often times what owners see is years of bottom paint and the fairing >>> material chipping out in a straight line that extends from leading edge to >>> trailing edge on both sides. This is a typical smile. Sometimes it is >>> natural and unavoidable cantilever flexing. Sometimes it is loose-ish >>> bolts that allow for the cantilever flex. Yes, instead of a low density >>> fairing compound a tougher material is in order. Notice I didn't say >>> stronger or harder. Toughness is the opposite of brittle. IMO the west >>> systems G-Flex line of products fits this description. If I was in need of >>> dropping the keel I would probably still use 5200 to seal the joint but >>> then simply fill with G-Flex as described in the article that I linked >>> previously. >>> >>> Also, do you need to raise the mast to tighten the bolt? I am under the >>> impression that one bolt is hidden under the mast. >>> >>> I had 2 bolts under the foot of my mast (C&C 37+). You should probably >>> expect at least one. You may be able to engineer a mechanism for >>> tightening the bolt without pulling the mast but ultimately I think you >>> will spend more time and money. Just coordinate with the yard to use their >>> travel lift to haul and block the boat in preparation for the repairs. >>> Make sure that they can reach the mast with their crane. Once the lift >>> sets the boat on the keel arrange for the crane to lift the mast. It >>> doesn't have to be removed - just lifted a foot or two. Of course there >>> are lots of maintenance items that you could coordinate during a complete >>> mast removal. >>> >>> My yard is saying I need to do all this in travel lift, is this >>> necessary? >>> >>> Yes, the weight of the boat should be compressing the joint while >>> tightening the bolts. Some listers have argued that the amount of tension >>> created by a single bolt at the correct torque exceeds the weight of the >>> keel many times over. I say, if you need to get to the bolt under the mast >>> anyway and you need to fill and fair and paint the keel anyway then you >>> need the travel lift. If you wanted to experiment or practice on the >>> accessible bolts while the boat was in the water then it is unlikely that >>> you would harm anything. >>> >>> Preparation is going to be the key to an expeditious repair. There are >>> lots of tools and correct sized sockets needed as well as a yard that has >>> the ability and willingness to coordinate with you for the use of their >>> equipment. I haven't even touched on the tools, equipment, and consumables >>> needed for the fill, fair, and paint. >>> >>> Keep the questions coming. >>> >>> >>> Good luck, >>> >>> Josh Muckley >>> S/V Sea Hawk >>> 1989 C&C 37+ >>> Solomons, MD >>> >>> >>> >>> On Sun, Jun 23, 2019, 9:12 AM General Gao via CnC-List < >>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>> >>>> It turns out my email last night was rejected due to size. Here is the >>>> link to the picture of "my smile"... >>>> >>>> >>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4sBNcSIFFFGYkRPU1IxNFdSbHhEUUFoZjZnVVZOSV9mMlM4/view?usp=sharing >>>> >>>> Thank you guys for sharing the information. It is very much >>>> appreciated. My email last night had two questions: >>>> >>>> Some people suggest to use the flexible material to fill the gap >>>> because the keel is likely to flex when heel over, is that a perception or >>>> a fact? >>>> >>>> Also, do you need to raise the mast to tighten the bolt? I am under the >>>> impression that one bolt is hidden under the mast. >>>> >>>> Seems to have been answered by you already. >>>> >>>> My yard is saying I need to do all this in travel lift, is this >>>> necessary? >>>> >>>> Thank you again! >>>> >>>> On Sun, Jun 23, 2019 at 6:19 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List < >>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>>> >>>>> I have a 35 MKII and i repaired the smile on my boat pretty much the >>>>> same way as Dennis described. However i only repaired the forward end of >>>>> the smile back for about 2 feet on each side. I did that 1 full year ago >>>>> so >>>>> the boat has experienced only one winter of freeze/thaw cycles here in >>>>> Nova >>>>> Scotia and a full season of sailing. No smile any longer on the boat but a >>>>> big smile on my face...mission accomplished >>>>> >>>>> On Sun, Jun 23, 2019 at 1:02 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < >>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> I wanted to share this article with you in my previous email but >>>>>> forgot. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=drivesdk >>>>>> >>>>>> Josh Muckley >>>>>> S /V Sea Hawk >>>>>> 1989 C&C 37 + >>>>>> Solomons, MD >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> On Sat, Jun 22, 2019, 9:51 PM General Gao via CnC-List < >>>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Hi, >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I am a new C&C 35 Mk2 owner, and I am a new owner of a sailboat in >>>>>>> general. The yard is telling me the "smile" on my boat is a bit >>>>>>> excessive. >>>>>>> Sailors on the Sailnet suggested me to post my question on here to get >>>>>>> more >>>>>>> accurate suggestions. So here I am. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Some people suggest me to tighten the bolt, or even drop the keel to >>>>>>> fix it for the long term; some suggested it is just appearance and no >>>>>>> structural concern, and "filling" or "patching" the smile is part of >>>>>>> regular annual maintenance for this boat. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I am seeking advice from people with experience on this model or >>>>>>> similar C&C boat in construction (solid FG hull and swing back keel). >>>>>>> >>>>>>> What would you recommend? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Thank you in advance. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Bo >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. >>>>>>> Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the >>>>>>> list >>>>>>> - use PayPal to send contribution -- >>>>>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>>>>>> >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> >>>>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. >>>>>> Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the >>>>>> list >>>>>> - use PayPal to send contribution -- >>>>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>>>> Sent from Gmail Mobile >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> >>>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. >>>>> Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the >>>>> list >>>>> - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >>>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >>>> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >>> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> >>> -- >> Sent from Gmail Mobile >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
