Do any of the pumps have one way valves built into them.
Our Rule pump let's water run back into the bilge, just enough to make it
run again when on auto.
It didn't do this when new two years ago.
Is it no good now?
Thx.
On July 10, 2019 16:49:23 ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
I have been using an electronic switch (Water Witch), instead of a float
switch, for more than five years, after two float switches failed. Here's
the link for Defender Industries:
https://search.defender.com/?expression=Water%20Witch
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 3:53 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I might have to check these out. One of my Rule switches is flaky, or there
is a bad connection somewhere down there. As it's the secondary pump, I've
ignored it for now, but I plan to tackle it again before our long summer
trip in a few weeks. I'd love to get a switch that will activate earlier so
I can have less water down there, and keep it below the lowest keel stud.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 5:37 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Another vote for the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switches. They are designed
with the common (3 way) connections inside the switch. That is, there are
separate wires for the manual supply, automatic supply and switched power
to the pump. The negative side also runs through the pump. Each wire comes
with an adhesive heat shrink butt connector.
No need to join the manual supply, switched supply and pump positive in a 3
way connection.
Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 9, 2019, at 3:46 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet
area (bilge) of the boat.
1. In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it
convenient to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to
run both the bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch. I had some 3
way fittings from Defender (below) that I have used before which have
crimp/heat shrink attachment ports. After connecting them I realized that
the center part of the fitting is actually not insulated. This seemed like
a bad idea, especially for a potentially wet area like the bilge. I am
confused by the logic of a sealed connector that has an unsealed junction
exposed. In the past I used a larger crimp/shrink butt connector and
stuck two wires into one end and now that seems like a better solution.
<2024633WY121.jpg>
2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the
same area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar
time as the alarm or emergency switch. So is that considered an OK way to
set up mast wiring in a wet area?
Thanks- Dave
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT
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