It may have changed but when I did my bilge pumps the off brand pumps had longer wires so I could make my connections behind a settee and not in the bilge. Keep it dry.
C S > On July 9, 2019 at 5:22 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > The narrow and shallow bilges of these C&Cs makes wiring a challenge. > The relatively short wires provided with typical bilge pumps doesn't help > either. > > If you absolutely cannot get the wires to reach high enough (just below > the floor boards) then solder and adhesive heat shrink is the best option. I > would use extra long pieces of heat shrink too. I'm sure there is probably a > spec but I usually use enough heat shrink to extend 1/4 to 3/8ths inch over > each side of insulation. In a case like this I would push for 1 inch or at > least the length of the splice. The splice should be mechanically sound such > that it is difficult to pull apart even without solder. Look up lineman > splice or wester union splice. When done correctly the twist of the strand > in the 2 wires lay together such that it becomes difficult to differentiate > them. Basically parallel instead of perpendicular. If you are extending the > wires anyway then you would probably be advised to extend them well clear of > the bilge. Consider future repairs by leaving extra loops of wire. Even if > the solder connection survives the pump and switch are unlikely to last more > than 3 or 4 years. > > In the case of joining 3 wires the only BEST way to do it is with > adhesive heat shrink ring terminals and a terminal board. They even make > jumpers for terminal boards. Unlikr radio shack or auto terminal boards, a > proper marine terminal board will not be made of corrosive materials. Proper > marine terminals will be tinned so as to not corrode. Proper marine wire > will be tinned however the cut end exposes the raw copper. Using adhesive > heat shrink seals the water out of the terminal preventing the raw copper > wire inside the terminal from corroding. A little dielectric grease on the > rings, screws, and terminal board contacts can help ensure that any tinning > that is damaged by the screw will remain protected. > > My mast wiring terminates in the overhead. The bilge is less than > optimal. A terminal box with glands for each wire may help in your > situation. Absolutely consider the above mentioned heat shrink ring > terminals and dielectric grease. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > > > On Tue, Jul 9, 2019, 4:52 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: > > > > > > No and No. > > > > Both of these will potentially cause stray current leakage into > > bilge water, which can eat metal very fast. > > > > Usually I don’t solder DC power wires, but my bilge pump wires are > > soldered and heat-shrinked to be totally waterproof where they are exposed > > to water. I would also move that junction block up higher. > > > > > > > > Joe > > > > Coquina > > > > > > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com > > mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of David Knecht via > > CnC-List > > Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2019 4:47 PM > > To: CnC CnC discussion list <CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com > > mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com > > > Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Wiring advice > > > > > > > > I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in > > a wet area (bilge) of the boat. > > > > > > > > 1. In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it > > convenient to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to > > run both the bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch. I had some 3 > > way fittings from Defender (below) that I have used before which have > > crimp/heat shrink attachment ports. After connecting them I realized that > > the center part of the fitting is actually not insulated. This seemed like > > a bad idea, especially for a potentially wet area like the bilge. I am > > confused by the logic of a sealed connector that has an unsealed junction > > exposed. In the past I used a larger crimp/shrink butt connector and > > stuck two wires into one end and now that seems like a better solution. > > > > [BSP Clear Seal 3-Way Splice Connectors] > > > > > > > > 2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in > > the same area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a > > similar time as the alarm or emergency switch. So is that considered an OK > > way to set up mast wiring in a wet area? > > > > > > > > Thanks- Dave > > > > > > > > S/V Aries > > > > 1990 C&C 34+ > > > > New London, CT > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. > > Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list > > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
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