Russ - no worries, I'm not obsessing about it. Rather, I am just trying to learn when I encounter things I don't quite understand or which don't seem right. Whether I get this boat or not, the C&C 35 will remain on my short list, so any knowledge I can gain will be worthwhile. I continue to look at other boats, like the Niagara 35 last week, but most of them have been eliminated for various reasons. A few are still on the maybe list (Ericson 30+ for around 20K is one). Yes, I could just settle for a 27-30' boat for around $10K, which is the place I was in a few months ago, but after spending nearly a year on this search, I am less inclined to repeat the process as we outgrow the smaller boat. That said, at least we can be sailing while still keeping eyes open for the right boat, so if nothing materializes soon, we'll probably go with something like an Ericson 29 for around $10K. I've ruled out the Catalina 27 (decks are too narrow going forward), but might consider other 27s (C&C, Ericson, etc); I just haven't been aboard many to know if they are suitable. There is a decent looking C&C 29 in Ladysmith with a for sale sign on it, but the owner doesn't return calls, so I assume it's no longer for sale.
On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 9:22 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Shawn, Buddy, Bro. > > You need to stop obsessing about this boat. > > Looking at boats for less than 20,000 and expecting 50,000 dollar results. > Give it up. > > This toe rail thing is a non-issue. *Sweet *had a discontinuous toe rail > from the factory. There is a joint just abaft the shrouds. The toe rail > does nothing for hull integrity. It is there for hull/deck bolting and a > nice place to hang gear from. If you let the puddles sit long enough to go > green in the winter it simply means you don't love your boat enough. This > fix is easy enough with Devcon, some aluminum flatbar and a bit of black > paint, if you wish. > > The prop shaft overhang is ridiculous (as best described previuosly), so > cut it down to a reasonable length for a few hundred bucks or use it until > repairs are needed and then deal with it. > > As a friend I suggest you start seriously looking at a much smaller boat > and move up in size a bit later. > > Kindest regards, Russ > ex-* Sweet*, 35 mk-1 > > > At 06:45 PM 4/13/2019, you wrote: > > Wow, that is interesting about the saw cut on the deck. I will have to > inspect the photo I took; it sure looked amateurish to me. I would sooner > cut a notch in the glass below the toe rail, then epoxy it smooth both > inside and outside to allow water to drain under the rail. I've seen some > boats where this is part of the deck/hull mold. The wick idea also sounds > reasonable, except it will become a green slimy worm after a while if not > cleaned... :) > > On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 2:36 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > On my friend's C&C Mk.1 there is a joint in the Toe Rail extrusion as two > different toe rails are used. The two different Toe Rails are identical > except the forward section has twice as many of the holes in the side per > foot to clip snatch block, etc. to. That joint isn't what you're seeing > is it? It seems to me on my friend's Mk.1 there is that same saw cut that > nicks the deck and the hull deck joint edge, almost like they cut the Toe > Rail on the boat wile assembling it. > > Have another look. > > Ken H. > > On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 at 17:22, Shawn Wright via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something quite alarming: it > appears that in an effort to allow drainage off the decks, someone decided > to cut a small section of the toerail out, about 1/4" wide, using a hacksaw > or recip. saw. I could see where the saw blade nicked the deck slightly > below, and it also exposed the hull-deck joint edge. > > While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and quite a difficult hack to > reverse (I think the toerails are continuous), it also got me wondering how > others have solved this problem. In our wet climate, allowing water to pool > promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was the reason for this ugly > hack job. I suppose one could hide it by attaching a short section of toe > rail or similar material on top of the cut, while still allowing water to > drain. > > -- > Shawn Wright > shawngwri...@gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > -- Shawn Wright shawngwri...@gmail.com
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
