Dennis,

Thanks for the info, I'm going to have to look into my steering, also most likely also 47 yrs without an overhaul.

I note two differences between your system and mine:
- instead of bolts through the chain to limit the travel, mine has an aluminum plate bolted to the underside of the quadrant with "fingers" on each side which in turn contact a plate on each side of a centerline upright at the limiting angle, -while your system has the engine controls in the pedestal, mine has them completely separate on the starboard side of the after cockpit.

Makes me wonder if C&C had different methods, particularly the angle stop, or if one was modified by a PO.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 1/23/2019 3:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Well, I disassembled Touche's steering system yesterday for a loooong overdue maintenance session.  As in it's never been done in 47 years! Touche's steering system is by Morch.

If you haven't checked your steering system, maybe this will inspire you to do so.

Oh, no!  Someone stole my pedestal!! https://drive.google.com/open?id=12p-nlp8FEwqR0zhDrqlHqxkb7UMa0iSx

I hope you find this helpful.  I found some items of concern.

Concern 1.  One of the steering cables had a broken strand.

  * See:
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Mu-dmCnPnDFdd5jGHnkBAGSqbGL6jnrw
  * The break occurred where the cable made a sharp bend around the
    quadrant just before the adjusting stud.
  * See:
    
http://www.bwsailing.com/bw/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Edson-Quadrant-Dwg.jpg
  * A buddy of mine who recently rebuilt the system in his Hans
    Christian 38 said he saw the same on his

Concern 2.  Some of the teeth on the chain sprocket were damaged.  This was a complete surprise.

  * See:
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1amngA8i-rm1IkBvn0HhyVGeNrj7T6NSk
  * And:
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1a1czFpkvfnyQuFbNIlfHZehhwk-Wyl-8
  * This was apparently caused by the way C&C/Morch made stops to
    limit the travel of the rudder.  They put a bolt at each end of
    the chain. The bolts must have caused the damage when the wheel
    reached its limit.
  * Note the two bolts with washers and nuts through the links of the
    chain here:
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nvJzh8xWDgetBCEE8eeOAtz4-up4ZvCf

Non-concerns.  The rest of the system looked pretty good.  The idler sheaves and bracket under the pedestal appeared to be in good condition.  I started to remove it but decided it will be easier to just pull the pins, remove the sheaves, clean, lube and re-install.

The turning sheaves and brackets looked to be in good condition. (See: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jie9IxSqSKorp3FaJtcKjbsNh3nD1TBU). I cleaned them and will lube and re-install.

Next I needed to disassemble the engine control assembly so it can be stripped and painted.  Using guidance from Chuck, here's that process.

  * Back off or remove the two small Phillips head retaining machine
    screws.
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VxT_ApckY55M7xXKoctIShPmIKxgrFUj
  * Move one lever COMPLETELY to one side and push the other lever
    out.
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nqwnvA1UYDEHFVfuH9xi_-sy6YJrSOLE
  * Then remove the other lever.
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pjlIMBqk3lTdZ0vtSWg6TfnNFOcpXQZY

Next steps.

  * Strip powder coat off the pedestal and associated parts and paint
    with AwlGrip.  Buddy of mine has leftover paint from painting his
    mast.
  * Replace both cables.  I'm deciding on this.  Edson's cable and
    wire kits look like simple swaged thimble eyes and fine thread eye
    bolts.  I have a Nicropress swaging tool, swages and thimbles.  I
    could make up the wire and buy the eye bolts.  On the other hand,
    we have a local rigging shop who could machine swage nicer
    replacements.  I think I may ask them for a quote.
  * The sprocket.  Hmmmm.  The chain makes a full 180 degree wrap over
    the sprocket.  I believe there are plenty of undamaged teeth that
    will work.  On the other hand, I could try to get the sprocket off
    the shaft and have a machine shop make a new one.  I think that
    would be a risky option.  First, I'm not sure how I would remove
    the sprocket.  It has set screws
    (https://drive.google.com/open?id=12GbE75ERXZGgz_NalJ93RcXf6rKvL5fi).
    I removed a small one on the sprocket and a larger one on a collar
    adjacent to it.  I suspect there is a keyway on the sprocket.  It
    showed no signs of moving.  There are some inventive ways to try
    to pull the shaft but again, they all have risk.  Then there's the
    issue of the bearings.  If I muck up the bearings, I'm screwed.
  * Give some thought to a better way to stop the wheel at the travel
    limits.

Here's the link to the folder with all the pics. https://drive.google.com/open?id=14-oaTFUoebWqxBo8xeUm9K8tPn7xObKE

So, again, if you haven't check your steering system, you might want to move that up your work list a bit.  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





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