On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 9:50 PM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re:  Rudder repair? (ALAN BERGEN)
>    2.  Oil pressure and smoke (Glenn Henderson)
>    3. Re:  Oil pressure and smoke (ALAN BERGEN)
>    4. Re:  Emergency redundancy for bilge pump (Rick Brass)
>    5. Re:  Emergency redundancy for bilge pump (Matthew L. Wolford)
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
> To: "C&C" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 16:09:33 -0700
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder repair?
> Listen to James.  His advice is sound.  Don't let the insurance company
> push you around.  You want the boat back to where it was before the
> grounding, and heating and straightening won't bring it back to the way it
> was.
>
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 3:57 PM, jcn--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dave
>> I have a C&C 29 Mk2 where the previous owner had hit rocks hard and tore
>> the bottom 10 inches off the rudder and bent the rudder post backward and
>> to port.  There was also some damage to the bottom of the keel.   I
>> replaced the bent rudder shaft with a new one made from 316 stainless as
>> part of a rudder rebuild.  Stainless work hardens if bent and while it can
>> be straightened you are essentially cold working it again to go the other
>> way to straighten and I would be concerned with cracking and overall loss
>> of strength.  If you added the required amount of heat to try to anneal to
>> compensate you would like damage the fiberglass rudder and foam core as the
>> anneal temperature for stainless is high.  If you are operating in a salt
>> water environment it is also more severe and higher risk of stress
>> corrosion cracking and thus the reason 316 stainless is used vs 304 in
>> marine applications.   Marine engineers designed the rudder post to bend if
>> hit hard enough once and thus not rip open the bottom of your boat. I'm not
>> sure they intended it to get straightened and take the same hit a second
>> time and not break off completely or worse.  My recommendation is get a new
>> rudder, or at minimum get a new post and have the rudder rebuilt as there
>> is likely more damage you don't see inside or at least the foam core had
>> been compromised by water getting in which was the case with my rudder.
>>  Good luck.
>>
>> James
>> C&C 29 Mk 2, White Magic. SN 001
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Jul 30, 2018, at 3:42 PM, Edward Levert via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> David
>>
>> If your insurance company is pushing for the repair vs replacement, ask
>> them if they will guarantee the repair and any subsequent damages.
>>
>> Ed Levert
>> C&C 34 Briar Patch
>> New Orleans, La
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 3:35 PM John Read via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> David Who is doing the repairs and what experience do they have? Suggest
>>> you call a reputable surveyor ,some other repair yards and of course to get
>>> the real answer Nick at Fort Rachel. Best John Read
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from XFINITY Connect Application
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>
>>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: davidakne...@gmail.com
>>> Sent: 2018-07-30 11:50:47 AM
>>> Subject: Stus-List Rudder repair?
>>>
>>> I have a decision to make on repairing the rudder on my boat after it
>>> was damaged in a grounding on a reef.  The shaft is bent and they are
>>> proposing to straighten the shaft and then repair the fiberglass.  It was
>>> described to me by the surveyor as a common process and no big deal.  He
>>> said they used heat and hydraulics to do it while the shaft is still
>>> attached to the rudder.  He described one done recently on a Nonesuch as
>>> bent worse than mine and came out fine.  I have been looking into having a
>>> replacement built, but that is going to take more time and money to do, so
>>> I am wondering what the experience and wisdom of the group is on the issue
>>> of repair.  Thanks- Dave
>>>
>>> Aries
>>> 1990 C&C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.
>> proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=
>> DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7
>> Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=mJXNaAcpyhHcm-UHdyn
>> sBGMWClt7o9ApNe2hK1QQc2U&s=MWE8uJlrCvap5_k_8NwUfeGye9Ldpa19IcWuPxh_Iwk&e=
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Glenn Henderson <ghe...@gmail.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 17:32:00 -0600
> Subject: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke
>
>> I have a 3JH4E on my 41. Strangely, after the engine sits, the dipstick
>> for the oil reads nothing unless I "bump" the starter. Then it reads
>> normal. I changed the filter and the oil so I know there is the proper
>> amount of oil. It just freaks me out to see a dry dipstick after running
>> the engine a lot. Has any one else experienced this?
>>
>
> Also, I have a light blue (not much) smoke in operation. I added the
> proper amount of "Gumount" fuel additive and it stops. I wonder if that is
> telling me anything?  I just bought the boat in May and sailed it to Tampa
> Bay using the engine quite a bit and she did great.
>
> Glenn Henderson
>
> C&C 41 WeGo
>
> Alan,
>

What I mean by "bump the starter" is to turn the engine over but not enough
to start it it. After I accomplish that, the dipstick reads the oil level
correctly. It was very worrisome at first but I know the oil is in there as
I filled it up myself. I did a 1500 nm trip and the engine did great.
Thanks!

>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
> To: "C&C" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 16:56:43 -0700
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke
> What do you mean by "bump the starter"? If the dipstick is reading dry
> when you know you have the proper amount of oil, it sounds like you may
> have the wrong dipstick.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 4:32 PM, Glenn Henderson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a 3JH4E on my 41. Strangely, after the engine sits, the dipstick
>>> for the oil reads nothing unless I "bump" the starter. Then it reads
>>> normal. I changed the filter and the oil so I know there is the proper
>>> amount of oil. It just freaks me out to see a dry dipstick after running
>>> the engine a lot. Has any one else experienced this?
>>>
>>
>> Also, I have a light blue (not much) smoke in operation. I added the
>> proper amount of "Gumount" fuel additive and it stops. I wonder if that is
>> telling me anything?  I just bought the boat in May and sailed it to Tampa
>> Bay using the engine quite a bit and she did great.
>>
>> Glenn Henderson
>>
>> C&C 41 WeGo
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.
>> proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=
>> DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7
>> Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=jpAWCu4_L98MKL6JT40
>> bHgMSh6wuNBghvG9L6slvhA0&s=qYAy5MMR1EtkD4jUz8FfE88vOwnoB3j9AcSmT_IKr6A&e=
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 23:23:52 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Emergency redundancy for bilge pump
>
> My 25 mk1 came with a manual Whale pump mounted in the center of the
> cockpit sole. I have always presumed it was an OEM installation.
>
>
>
> That’s the only bilge pump I have on the 25. She is a very dry boat. In a
> 6 month period she does not get enough water in the bilge to prime the
> manual pump. I usually dry it out with a sponge about twice a year.
>
>
>
> Guess I’m lucky.
>
>
>
> My 38 has an automatic bilge pump in the bilge, and a manual Whale pump
> mounted in the wall of the cockpit so it can be pumped from the helm. That
> one was an OEM installation. I also have a Whale mounted on a board out in
> the garage that I will put on the boat when I go cruising.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Imzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47
>
> la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 #225
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill
> Dakin via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 25, 2018 12:56 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Bill Dakin <aussiebr...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Emergency redundancy for bilge pump
>
>
>
> Several weeks ago I read about an emergency and rescue of a couple about
> 150nm off northern California.  Among the multitude of issues (leading to
> catastrophic results) was a companionway breach by waves.  The inlet to the
> bilge pump hose had clogged from cabin debris resulting in another issue
> (multitudes!).  Since safety includes operational redundancy, does anyone
> make a practice of installing a smaller battery in a watertight but
> ventilated compartment to operate a secondary pump with clog proof
> screening?
>
>
>
> Bill Dakin
>
> S/V Tapestry
>
> 25-2
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: "Matthew L. Wolford" <wolf...@erie.net>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 23:49:27 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Emergency redundancy for bilge pump
> My 42 has two manual Whale pumps for the bilge, one down below (bottom of
> the stairs) and one one on deck near the wheel.  Pretty standard stuff,
> although the second pump down below was surprising.  In addition, the PO
> installed a diaphragm pump, to which I added a screen filter (which picks
> up a surprising amount of debris).  This is the one I use most of the
> time.  For emergencies, I also have a large, moveable, high-capacity
> Beckson manual pump.  I believe mine is a commercial grade 22 gpm pump.
> See http://beckson.com/tmpumps.html .  I do not have a separate
> watertight battery compartment.
>
> If this is a big concern, you may want to consider installing a tee on
> your engine’s raw water intake to use the engine as an emergency pump.
>
> *From:* Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, July 30, 2018 11:23 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Emergency redundancy for bilge pump
>
>
> My 25 mk1 came with a manual Whale pump mounted in the center of the
> cockpit sole. I have always presumed it was an OEM installation.
>
>
>
> That’s the only bilge pump I have on the 25. She is a very dry boat. In a
> 6 month period she does not get enough water in the bilge to prime the
> manual pump. I usually dry it out with a sponge about twice a year.
>
>
>
> Guess I’m lucky.
>
>
>
> My 38 has an automatic bilge pump in the bilge, and a manual Whale pump
> mounted in the wall of the cockpit so it can be pumped from the helm. That
> one was an OEM installation. I also have a Whale mounted on a board out in
> the garage that I will put on the boat when I go cruising.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Imzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47
>
> la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 #225
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill
> Dakin via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 25, 2018 12:56 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Bill Dakin <aussiebr...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Emergency redundancy for bilge pump
>
>
>
> Several weeks ago I read about an emergency and rescue of a couple about
> 150nm off northern California.  Among the multitude of issues (leading to
> catastrophic results) was a companionway breach by waves.  The inlet to the
> bilge pump hose had clogged from cabin debris resulting in another issue
> (multitudes!).  Since safety includes operational redundancy, does anyone
> make a practice of installing a smaller battery in a watertight but
> ventilated compartment to operate a secondary pump with clog proof
> screening?
>
>
>
> Bill Dakin
>
> S/V Tapestry
>
> 25-2
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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