On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 9:50 PM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to > cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com > > You can reach the person managing the list at > cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Rudder repair? (ALAN BERGEN) > 2. Oil pressure and smoke (Glenn Henderson) > 3. Re: Oil pressure and smoke (ALAN BERGEN) > 4. Re: Emergency redundancy for bilge pump (Rick Brass) > 5. Re: Emergency redundancy for bilge pump (Matthew L. Wolford) > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu> > To: "C&C" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 16:09:33 -0700 > Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder repair? > Listen to James. His advice is sound. Don't let the insurance company > push you around. You want the boat back to where it was before the > grounding, and heating and straightening won't bring it back to the way it > was. > > > Alan Bergen > 35 Mk III Thirsty > Rose City YC > Portland, OR > > > On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 3:57 PM, jcn--- via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Dave >> I have a C&C 29 Mk2 where the previous owner had hit rocks hard and tore >> the bottom 10 inches off the rudder and bent the rudder post backward and >> to port. There was also some damage to the bottom of the keel. I >> replaced the bent rudder shaft with a new one made from 316 stainless as >> part of a rudder rebuild. Stainless work hardens if bent and while it can >> be straightened you are essentially cold working it again to go the other >> way to straighten and I would be concerned with cracking and overall loss >> of strength. If you added the required amount of heat to try to anneal to >> compensate you would like damage the fiberglass rudder and foam core as the >> anneal temperature for stainless is high. If you are operating in a salt >> water environment it is also more severe and higher risk of stress >> corrosion cracking and thus the reason 316 stainless is used vs 304 in >> marine applications. Marine engineers designed the rudder post to bend if >> hit hard enough once and thus not rip open the bottom of your boat. I'm not >> sure they intended it to get straightened and take the same hit a second >> time and not break off completely or worse. My recommendation is get a new >> rudder, or at minimum get a new post and have the rudder rebuilt as there >> is likely more damage you don't see inside or at least the foam core had >> been compromised by water getting in which was the case with my rudder. >> Good luck. >> >> James >> C&C 29 Mk 2, White Magic. SN 001 >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >> On Jul 30, 2018, at 3:42 PM, Edward Levert via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> David >> >> If your insurance company is pushing for the repair vs replacement, ask >> them if they will guarantee the repair and any subsequent damages. >> >> Ed Levert >> C&C 34 Briar Patch >> New Orleans, La >> >> On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 3:35 PM John Read via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> David Who is doing the repairs and what experience do they have? Suggest >>> you call a reputable surveyor ,some other repair yards and of course to get >>> the real answer Nick at Fort Rachel. Best John Read >>> >>> >>> Sent from XFINITY Connect Application >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> >>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> Cc: davidakne...@gmail.com >>> Sent: 2018-07-30 11:50:47 AM >>> Subject: Stus-List Rudder repair? >>> >>> I have a decision to make on repairing the rudder on my boat after it >>> was damaged in a grounding on a reef. The shaft is bent and they are >>> proposing to straighten the shaft and then repair the fiberglass. It was >>> described to me by the surveyor as a common process and no big deal. He >>> said they used heat and hydraulics to do it while the shaft is still >>> attached to the rudder. He described one done recently on a Nonesuch as >>> bent worse than mine and came out fine. I have been looking into having a >>> replacement built, but that is going to take more time and money to do, so >>> I am wondering what the experience and wisdom of the group is on the issue >>> of repair. Thanks- Dave >>> >>> Aries >>> 1990 C&C 34+ >>> New London, CT >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >>> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwMFaQ&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=mJXNaAcpyhHcm-UHdynsBGMWClt7o9ApNe2hK1QQc2U&s=MWE8uJlrCvap5_k_8NwUfeGye9Ldpa19IcWuPxh_Iwk&e=> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwMFaQ&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=mJXNaAcpyhHcm-UHdynsBGMWClt7o9ApNe2hK1QQc2U&s=MWE8uJlrCvap5_k_8NwUfeGye9Ldpa19IcWuPxh_Iwk&e=> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://urldefense. >> proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d= >> DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7 >> Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=mJXNaAcpyhHcm-UHdyn >> sBGMWClt7o9ApNe2hK1QQc2U&s=MWE8uJlrCvap5_k_8NwUfeGye9Ldpa19IcWuPxh_Iwk&e= >> >> >> > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Glenn Henderson <ghe...@gmail.com> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 17:32:00 -0600 > Subject: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke > >> I have a 3JH4E on my 41. Strangely, after the engine sits, the dipstick >> for the oil reads nothing unless I "bump" the starter. Then it reads >> normal. I changed the filter and the oil so I know there is the proper >> amount of oil. It just freaks me out to see a dry dipstick after running >> the engine a lot. Has any one else experienced this? >> > > Also, I have a light blue (not much) smoke in operation. I added the > proper amount of "Gumount" fuel additive and it stops. I wonder if that is > telling me anything? I just bought the boat in May and sailed it to Tampa > Bay using the engine quite a bit and she did great. > > Glenn Henderson > > C&C 41 WeGo > > Alan, > What I mean by "bump the starter" is to turn the engine over but not enough to start it it. After I accomplish that, the dipstick reads the oil level correctly. It was very worrisome at first but I know the oil is in there as I filled it up myself. I did a 1500 nm trip and the engine did great. Thanks! > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu> > To: "C&C" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 16:56:43 -0700 > Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke > What do you mean by "bump the starter"? If the dipstick is reading dry > when you know you have the proper amount of oil, it sounds like you may > have the wrong dipstick. > > Alan Bergen > 35 Mk III Thirsty > Rose City YC > Portland, OR > > > On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 4:32 PM, Glenn Henderson via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I have a 3JH4E on my 41. Strangely, after the engine sits, the dipstick >>> for the oil reads nothing unless I "bump" the starter. Then it reads >>> normal. I changed the filter and the oil so I know there is the proper >>> amount of oil. It just freaks me out to see a dry dipstick after running >>> the engine a lot. Has any one else experienced this? >>> >> >> Also, I have a light blue (not much) smoke in operation. I added the >> proper amount of "Gumount" fuel additive and it stops. I wonder if that is >> telling me anything? I just bought the boat in May and sailed it to Tampa >> Bay using the engine quite a bit and she did great. >> >> Glenn Henderson >> >> C&C 41 WeGo >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://urldefense. >> proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d= >> DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7 >> Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=jpAWCu4_L98MKL6JT40 >> bHgMSh6wuNBghvG9L6slvhA0&s=qYAy5MMR1EtkD4jUz8FfE88vOwnoB3j9AcSmT_IKr6A&e= >> >> >> > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> > To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 23:23:52 -0400 > Subject: Re: Stus-List Emergency redundancy for bilge pump > > My 25 mk1 came with a manual Whale pump mounted in the center of the > cockpit sole. I have always presumed it was an OEM installation. > > > > That’s the only bilge pump I have on the 25. She is a very dry boat. In a > 6 month period she does not get enough water in the bilge to prime the > manual pump. I usually dry it out with a sponge about twice a year. > > > > Guess I’m lucky. > > > > My 38 has an automatic bilge pump in the bilge, and a manual Whale pump > mounted in the wall of the cockpit so it can be pumped from the helm. That > one was an OEM installation. I also have a Whale mounted on a board out in > the garage that I will put on the boat when I go cruising. > > > > Rick Brass > > Imzadi C&C 38 mk2 #47 > > la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 #225 > > Washington, NC > > > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill > Dakin via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, July 25, 2018 12:56 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Bill Dakin <aussiebr...@gmail.com> > *Subject:* Stus-List Emergency redundancy for bilge pump > > > > Several weeks ago I read about an emergency and rescue of a couple about > 150nm off northern California. Among the multitude of issues (leading to > catastrophic results) was a companionway breach by waves. The inlet to the > bilge pump hose had clogged from cabin debris resulting in another issue > (multitudes!). Since safety includes operational redundancy, does anyone > make a practice of installing a smaller battery in a watertight but > ventilated compartment to operate a secondary pump with clog proof > screening? > > > > Bill Dakin > > S/V Tapestry > > 25-2 > > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: "Matthew L. Wolford" <wolf...@erie.net> > To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 23:49:27 -0400 > Subject: Re: Stus-List Emergency redundancy for bilge pump > My 42 has two manual Whale pumps for the bilge, one down below (bottom of > the stairs) and one one on deck near the wheel. Pretty standard stuff, > although the second pump down below was surprising. In addition, the PO > installed a diaphragm pump, to which I added a screen filter (which picks > up a surprising amount of debris). This is the one I use most of the > time. For emergencies, I also have a large, moveable, high-capacity > Beckson manual pump. I believe mine is a commercial grade 22 gpm pump. > See http://beckson.com/tmpumps.html . I do not have a separate > watertight battery compartment. > > If this is a big concern, you may want to consider installing a tee on > your engine’s raw water intake to use the engine as an emergency pump. > > *From:* Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *Sent:* Monday, July 30, 2018 11:23 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Emergency redundancy for bilge pump > > > My 25 mk1 came with a manual Whale pump mounted in the center of the > cockpit sole. I have always presumed it was an OEM installation. > > > > That’s the only bilge pump I have on the 25. She is a very dry boat. In a > 6 month period she does not get enough water in the bilge to prime the > manual pump. I usually dry it out with a sponge about twice a year. > > > > Guess I’m lucky. > > > > My 38 has an automatic bilge pump in the bilge, and a manual Whale pump > mounted in the wall of the cockpit so it can be pumped from the helm. That > one was an OEM installation. I also have a Whale mounted on a board out in > the garage that I will put on the boat when I go cruising. > > > > Rick Brass > > Imzadi C&C 38 mk2 #47 > > la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 #225 > > Washington, NC > > > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill > Dakin via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, July 25, 2018 12:56 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Bill Dakin <aussiebr...@gmail.com> > *Subject:* Stus-List Emergency redundancy for bilge pump > > > > Several weeks ago I read about an emergency and rescue of a couple about > 150nm off northern California. Among the multitude of issues (leading to > catastrophic results) was a companionway breach by waves. The inlet to the > bilge pump hose had clogged from cabin debris resulting in another issue > (multitudes!). Since safety includes operational redundancy, does anyone > make a practice of installing a smaller battery in a watertight but > ventilated compartment to operate a secondary pump with clog proof > screening? > > > > Bill Dakin > > S/V Tapestry > > 25-2 > > > > > > ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > _______________________________________________ > CnC-List mailing list > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > >
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray