If you choose to do a "deck peel", a vibrating saw such as a Dremel
Multimax is the tool to use.  It will cut a very narrow groove.  You can
then "peel" up the deck using a flexible putty knife.  If you are careful,
you can then replace the peeled piece of deck.

Go a bit outside the rotted area.  That way, once you remove the rotted
wood, you will have a ledge on which the peeled piece of deck can be
replaced.  The elevation will then match.

I've done a few deck peels, feel free to ask questions.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35 -1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 2:54 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Stephen,
>
>
>
> I had the same thing on my Mk1, brown water squishing out when I tensioned
> the rig in the spring.
>
> There is a plywood rectangle glassed into the deck that supports the mast
> step and transfers the load from the mast step casting through the deck, to
> the bulkhead cross member in the cabin.
>
> The plywood is rotting and needs to be replaced.
>
> I sounded out the deck around the step area to see if there was any
> delamination (there was), then cut off the top layer of the deck to the
> edge of the delamination and peeled it off.
>
> If your very lucky it will come off in one piece or a few large pieces.
>
> Once this is done you will see the plywood support and any rotten core in
> the area and you can remove all of the nastyness.
>
> You can replace the plywood piece (encapsulate it in epoxy first) or just
> fill it all in with some fibreglass mat so it is solid.
>
> If you were lucky you can glass the outer deck layer back on or just glass
> over the entire cut area until it is even with the existing deck.
>
> Drill the step mounting holes from the inside to get the proper location
> then do the oversize drill to the bottom layer of the deck, epoxy fill,
> re-drill routine to ensure it doesn’t rot again.
>
> Make sure you bevel the top of the holes to get a better seal with
> whatever you use to seal the holes before putting on the step casting.
>
> Some fairing and paint and it’s as good as new.
>
> It took me 3 or 4 days (3 or 4 hrs/day) to do the repair with simple
> tools, a dremel tool with cut-off wheels, oscillating multi tool saw, putty
> knife, chisel, hammer, drill and bits.
>
> You’ll also need epoxy, some sort of thickener (I used colloidal silica),
> fibreglass mat (woven, not the chopped stuff), mixing containers, stirring
> sticks and the normal ppe.
>
> It is a DIY job and the only precision areas are getting the deck
> thickness the same as it was with a flat area to mount the step and making
> sure the holes to bolt down the step are re-drilled in the original place.
>
>
>
> Rick Taillieu
>
> Boatless
>
> Leamington, Ontario
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stephen
> Kidd via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June-14-18 10:16
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Stephen Kidd
> *Subject:* Stus-List C&C 25 II - mast step concerns
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
>
>
> First, having found the archives for this list incredibly helpful, I
> wanted to pose a question about the mast step on my C&C 25 II (bought about
> a year ago somewhat impulsively, I confess). Occasionally, after prolonged
> rains, I'll find some water residue in the cabin under the mast step. It's
> dark brown, which has me concerned, and is dripping from one of the bolt
> holes. Not much, just some drops. I put some butyl around the step, which
> has seemed to solve the leak.
>
>
>
> The deck feels solid, but I'm wondering if this warrants a mast step
> rebuild. A failing mast step sounds scary. Any things I should check to
> diagnose? Any ideas on what a boatyard might charge to rebuild the mast
> step (rate is about $100 an hour)?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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