The only thing can add (after doing 10 windows) is that the surface need to be 
flat and smooth, install and seal out of direct sunlight, minimum 3/16 gap for 
sealing, slight bevel on both sides of plexi ( more on tape side) outside just 
enough to remove sharp edge, and when sealing push sealant with nozzle. Then 
smooth in one stroke for best finish. Also let them know they get one shot at 
the windows. Once the plexi touches the tape it is STUCK!! I put the tape in 
cut out  even with inside edge of opening. Use a spacer on bottom edge to 
position plexi in opening. Good luck. 
Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard Yacht Club


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message --------From: Mark Baldridge via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 2/9/18  16:20  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mark Baldridge <jmbaldri...@gmail.com> Subject: 
Stus-List C&C 37+ window replacement 
Hi All,

I'm in discussion with the yard to replace the fixed windows on my 
37/40+ this spring. They barely leak, but there are vertical splits on 
both sides of the forward windows and in big downpours do leak. I 
currently have blue tape on them to stop the leaks when I'm not around. 
I want them replaced and looking sharp before the wife picks out new 
upholstery for the interior.

So far I'm looking at having them use 3M 4991 VHB tape and Dow 795 
caulking. For those that have this done, any tips I should pass on to 
the folks doing the work.

Also what was used for the windows, "cast" plexiglass? and what 
thickness? I've read 3/8 in posts, but I've been told 1/4" would work 
better due to the curvature of the adhesion area.

Thanks,
Mark Baldridge
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~_/)
'89 C&C 37/40+ "The Edge"
Surf City, NC



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