Hi Don
Chuck’s instructions pretty much mirror our experience. Once the compass and plate are off and the cable clamp screw is removed, the entire cable / clamp / handle assembly can be removed from the binnacle. Attach new cable to the handle, attach cable clamp, refit into binnacle and tube. Be especially aware the handles only go in one way so carefully note their position going out so you can replicate going in. Best of luck John and Maryann Legacy III 1982 C&C 34 Noank, CT From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List Sent: Monday, December 11, 2017 2:58 PM To: 'DON JONSSON'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing shifter cable - but Don, Your boat has the same engine control as mine. It was a control made specifically for C&C because the engineers at C&C didn’t like the idea of the control cables for the engine running inside the pedestal, fearing they would possibly foul on the steering gear. It is either an Edson 737 or 747 control depending on whether you have an Atomic 4 (using a series 64 Morse Cable for the shift) or a diesel with a pair of Morse 33 cables. The only difference is the length of the cable clamps and the type of shift lever (the one for the gas engine has a long removable lever that stores on a hole in the engine control’s top plate). As soon as you started talking about removing the top plate, I suspected that your engine control was different than what was being discussed. On these controls, there is a strap steel clamp that extends down the stainless tube that serves to hold the cable from moving up and down when you actuate the levers. I can’t recall the exact size of screw that anchors these long metal pieces but they can be a real bear to remove. So, your compass needs to come off.. the top plate that bolts down onto the top of the controller comes off, you reach into the control and remove the cotter pin that holds the control lever to the cable clevis, remove the pivot bolt (screw?) and slide the control lever out of the engine control. Whatever you do, don’t break anything because parts are pretty much impossible to find. Remove the clamp screw and pull the cable up sufficiently to unscrew the clevis from the threaded cable end. The cable can either be routed up or down, depending on what would be the easier access. I typically find pushing the cable up through the tubes from below deck works better than feeding them down the tube. Should something be broken or the engine control is badly corroded, a refit to a model 816 engine control (diesel engine) or 751 (gas engine/paragon transmission) is probably recommended. This new control will fit between the pedestal and compass. I hope this helps. Again, If you struggle with the direction given here, Ken Martin at Edson has been dealing with “over the phone” help for these controls for 20 years or more and was always better than me with the customers! They may still have a photocopy of the original installation instructions they can send in a PDF. Good luck, Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 35 Landfall Padanaram, MA
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
