Sounds like a similar approach. If you have the luxury of time, heating the
rudder for several weeks during winter months (when the ambient air is dry in
colder regions) is fool-proof, and without expensive equipment or labor.
Obviously, you don’t want to overheat the rudder and cause damage. I’m
guessing 150 degrees F would also do the trick if this is a concern. Just bake
it a little longer.
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2017 10:03 AM
To: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes
I don’t speak from personal experience, but I read somewhere of drying the core
using a vacuum pump (at least, theoretically, water should evaporate at much
lower temperature if the pressure drops). After all the moisture gets out, you
can fill the voids (or saturate the core) with very thin epoxy.
It makes sense, I think.
Marek
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 8, 2017 20:41
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes
Neil:
I think I may have commented on this before, but just in case: when I
bought my boat, we noted that the moisture meter readings for the rudder were
elevated (along with much of the core). Rather than do a total re-build, my
repair guy -- who knows as much about West System as the Gougeon brothers and
was a close friend of theirs before they died -- repaired my rudder the same
way he had done with some other C&Cs. First, he draws a grid on one side of
the rudder with parallel lines about one inch apart and intersecting parallel
lines about one inch apart. He then drills holes (about 3/8” or so) on the
intersecting points. Then he places the rudder into a “casket,” which is a
contraption that he made for drying out rudders. It’s basically a plywood box
to which he attaches a heater. He heats the interior space of the box to about
200 degrees F for several weeks, and any water inside the rudder finds it way
out through the holes. After the rudder is sufficiently baked, he then fills
the holes with West System (I’m sure he uses a mixture of some sort, either
colloidal silica or the cotton “wetting” additive). When the holes are filled,
the surface is smoothed out, and several coats of Interprotect are applied on
the entire rudder. He also checks the area where the rudder post enters the
rudder to make sure it’s not easy for water to get in. On my boat, this part
of the rudder is normally out of the water, so this is not a huge issue.
He did this repair five or more years ago, and as far as I know the rudder
is solid and dry.
Matt
From: schiller via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2017 5:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: schiller
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes
Here in the great white north the concern is the water freezing and splitting
the rudder. The surveyor concurred with that reasoning. Good old fresh water
has it advantages but cold weather has its own items to be concerned with. We
haul, winterize and cover but we don't have to worry about Hurricanes and
electrolysis (at least as much as salt water). My shaft zincs are pretty much
only a shaft stop.
Thanks for all of the input on drain holes. I think I have my game plan.
Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35, Mark III, #028
"Grace"
White Lake, Michigan
On 10/8/2017 10:48 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
When we bought ours the surveyor gave cautionary guidance that water in the
rudder was bad since it could cause the metal web inside to rust. Eventually
this could result in the rudder twisting freely on the post or even falling
off. His guidance was that the only good way to fix the problem was to have
the rudder rebuilt. He told stories of some people drilling drain holes but
wasn't convinced that all the water ever made it out. Imagine trying to dry
your laundry by just draining the tank and opening the lid of the washing
machine. We were sufficiently scared by the possible consequences and had the
rudder rebuilt the following winter. In conclusion the steel web and welds
were perfect and draining may have been sufficient - but for how long is
anyone's guess. Some people have a hard time sleeping on the hook. Instead I
have nightmares about killing people when the rudder, mast, or keel fail.
Here are the pictures that the fiberglass guy took during the rebuild. They
should help you when determining the internal structure of your rudder and
where to drill holes.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 7, 2017 2:56 PM, "schiller via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
One of the items in our new C&C 35, Mark III was that there was moisture in
the rudder and the surveyor suggested drilling drainage holes. Anyone want to
suggest the location to drill? We hauled out last night and I am going up to
the boat to disconnect batteries on Wednesday. I assume that the drainage
holes will be in the lower quadrant of the rudder. Should they be in the side
or in the bottom surface (or does it really matter.
I never had to do this on my Redwing 35 so this is new to us.
Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35, Mark III, #028
"Grace"
White Lake, Michigan
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The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.
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All contributions are greatly appreciated!
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_______________________________________________
The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.
October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small
contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution
-- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
All contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________
The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.
October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small
contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution
-- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
All contributions are greatly appreciated!
