When we bought ours the surveyor gave cautionary guidance that water in the
rudder was bad since it could cause the metal web inside to rust.
Eventually this could result in the rudder twisting freely on the post or
even falling off.  His guidance was that the only good way to fix the
problem was to have the rudder rebuilt.  He told stories of some people
drilling drain holes but wasn't convinced that all the water ever made it
out.  Imagine trying to dry your laundry by just draining the tank and
opening the lid of the washing machine.  We were sufficiently scared by the
possible consequences and had the rudder rebuilt the following winter.  In
conclusion the steel web and welds were perfect and draining may have been
sufficient - but for how long is anyone's guess.  Some people have a hard
time sleeping on the hook.  Instead I have nightmares about killing people
when the rudder, mast, or keel fail.

Here are the pictures that the fiberglass guy took during the rebuild.
They should help you when determining the internal structure of your rudder
and where to drill holes.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Oct 7, 2017 2:56 PM, "schiller via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> One of the items in our new C&C 35, Mark III was that there was moisture
> in the rudder and the surveyor suggested drilling drainage holes.  Anyone
> want to suggest the location to drill?  We hauled out last night and I am
> going up to the boat to disconnect batteries on Wednesday.  I assume that
> the drainage holes will be in the lower quadrant of the rudder.  Should
> they be in the side or in the bottom surface (or does it really matter.
>
> I never had to do this on my Redwing 35 so this is new to us.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C&C 35, Mark III, #028
> "Grace"
> White Lake, Michigan
>
>
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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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