Torque specs are here: http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm <http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm>
I used those when I torqued Grenadine’s keel bolts this past offseason (while she was on her trailer). You’ll generally need a torque wrench that goes up to some pretty high torque numbers, with a long handle / breaker bar / pipe extension. The right size wrench probably has 3/4” or 1” drive, so you’ll need sockets in the right size and drive size for the nuts, plus socket extensions in the right drive size, and any drive size adapters if necessary. I was able to rent all that stuff from a local rental place for a half day for about $50 I think it was. I wrote about it here: http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2017-April/092139.html <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2017-April/092139.html> Cheers, Randy > On Sep 22, 2017, at 12:37 PM, David Miles via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Great explanation. > What is the correct torque to apply? > Thx. > David > C&C30MK2 Impulse > > On September 22, 2017 11:23:45 AM Rick Brass via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: > >> Lisle; >> >> As others have said, you appear to be looking at the C&C Smile. That is a >> crack in the bottom paint or fairing compound covering the joint where the >> top of the lead keel meets the bottom of the fiberglass keel stub. As these >> things go, yours appears to be pretty minor. On older boats with a swept >> back keel, I’ve seen gaps at the leading edge of the joint of a quarter inch >> or so. >> >> The probable cause is that the tension on the keel bolts is too low. When >> the boat was built, a sealing compound was put between the top of the keel >> and the bottom of the hull, and the bolts were torqued tight. As the boat >> heels when sailing, the keel flexes slightly to the side, and the bolts tend >> to lose torque over time. That leads to the crack – the C&C Smile – in the >> hard paint or fairing compound covering the joint. On older boats with the >> swept back keel, the crack can be accentuated if the boat is blocked at the >> back of the keel, or with too much of the boat’s weight supported to far >> back. Some of the listers have indicated damage to the keel stub from hard >> groundings, but I don’t see any real evidence of that in your photos. >> >> The condition can be cosmetic, or a real problem. Probably cosmetic in well >> over 90% of the time. You can tell if it is a real problem if you put the >> boat in the water and water leaks into the bilge from the joint. >> >> The solution is to torque the bolts properly, and retorque them >> periodically. My 38 had a fairly large smile when I bought her in 2003. The >> bolts got retorqued when I had some keel work done in 2004. Again in about >> 2009, when we also opened up a small groove along the smile, put 5200 sealer >> in the groove, faired the joint, and applied a layer of glass cloth from the >> leading edge of the joint to about 2 feet back to address the cosmetic >> issues. No smile when the bottom was painted in 2013. A slight crack was >> evident last winter when I painted the bottom, and a little water seeped out >> of the 5200 sealer – so I retorqued the bolts again (it had been 8 years >> after all) and applied another layer of glass before the bottom paint. >> >> If you find you have a water leak – which I suspect is not likely given the >> appearance of the smile, the fix is to drop the keel, apply 5200 as a new >> layer of sealer, and torque the bolts properly. That stops the leak, but >> won’t stop the smile (5200, after all, is flexible and that is what causes >> the smile). Fairing and a fiberglass band over the joint will eliminate the >> cosmetic issues so long as you retorque the bolts every few years into the >> future. >> >> As others have said, get a good survey. You are already paying a relatively >> high price for late 80s boat, and I really doubt that putting another $5000 >> or more into rebidding the keel would be a desirable activity. >> >> Bruce; >> >> The reason that torqueing the bolts while on the hard is preferable to doing >> it in the water might be that, when in the water, a goodly portion of the >> effort is directed at supporting the weight of the keel instead of applying >> force to the seal. On the hard, with the weight of the boat holding the keel >> tightly to the stub, you would tend to get a tighter seal and more tension >> on the bolts, which should slow down the inevitable loosening of the bolts >> as the keel moves around while sailing – and thus require less frequent >> torqueing or reduce the development of the next smile. >> >> Rick Brass >> Washington, NC >> >> >> >> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com >> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via >> CnC-List >> Sent: Friday, September 22, 2017 11:54 AM >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Cc: Bruce Whitmore <bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net <mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List question about a C&C 30 mkii keel >> >> Hi Josh, >> >> Quick question which I've wrestled with in my mind - Why torque the keel >> bolts on the hard? Since the keel will spend most of its time hanging from >> the bottom of the boat in the water, isn't it better to torque the bolts in >> the specific situation where the stresses will be applied? >> >> Thanks for the insights, >> >> Bruce Whitmore >> >> (847) 404-5092 (mobile) >> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net <mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish >> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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