Torque specs are found here: http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm
Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sep 22, 2017 2:38 PM, "David Miles via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Great explanation. > What is the correct torque to apply? > Thx. > David > C&C30MK2 Impulse > > On September 22, 2017 11:23:45 AM Rick Brass via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Lisle; >> >> >> >> As others have said, you appear to be looking at the C&C Smile. That is a >> crack in the bottom paint or fairing compound covering the joint where the >> top of the lead keel meets the bottom of the fiberglass keel stub. As these >> things go, yours appears to be pretty minor. On older boats with a swept >> back keel, I’ve seen gaps at the leading edge of the joint of a quarter >> inch or so. >> >> >> >> The probable cause is that the tension on the keel bolts is too low. When >> the boat was built, a sealing compound was put between the top of the keel >> and the bottom of the hull, and the bolts were torqued tight. As the boat >> heels when sailing, the keel flexes slightly to the side, and the bolts >> tend to lose torque over time. That leads to the crack – the C&C Smile – in >> the hard paint or fairing compound covering the joint. On older boats with >> the swept back keel, the crack can be accentuated if the boat is blocked at >> the back of the keel, or with too much of the boat’s weight supported to >> far back. Some of the listers have indicated damage to the keel stub from >> hard groundings, but I don’t see any real evidence of that in your photos. >> >> >> >> The condition can be cosmetic, or a real problem. Probably cosmetic in >> well over 90% of the time. You can tell if it is a real problem if you put >> the boat in the water and water leaks into the bilge from the joint. >> >> >> >> The solution is to torque the bolts properly, and retorque them >> periodically. My 38 had a fairly large smile when I bought her in 2003. The >> bolts got retorqued when I had some keel work done in 2004. Again in about >> 2009, when we also opened up a small groove along the smile, put 5200 >> sealer in the groove, faired the joint, and applied a layer of glass cloth >> from the leading edge of the joint to about 2 feet back to address the >> cosmetic issues. No smile when the bottom was painted in 2013. A slight >> crack was evident last winter when I painted the bottom, and a little water >> seeped out of the 5200 sealer – so I retorqued the bolts again (it had been >> 8 years after all) and applied another layer of glass before the bottom >> paint. >> >> >> >> If you find you have a water leak – which I suspect is not likely given >> the appearance of the smile, the fix is to drop the keel, apply 5200 as a >> new layer of sealer, and torque the bolts properly. That stops the leak, >> but won’t stop the smile (5200, after all, is flexible and that is what >> causes the smile). Fairing and a fiberglass band over the joint will >> eliminate the cosmetic issues so long as you retorque the bolts every few >> years into the future. >> >> >> >> As others have said, get a good survey. You are already paying a >> relatively high price for late 80s boat, and I really doubt that putting >> another $5000 or more into rebidding the keel would be a desirable activity. >> >> >> >> Bruce; >> >> >> >> The reason that torqueing the bolts while on the hard is preferable to >> doing it in the water might be that, when in the water, a goodly portion of >> the effort is directed at supporting the weight of the keel instead of >> applying force to the seal. On the hard, with the weight of the boat >> holding the keel tightly to the stub, you would tend to get a tighter seal >> and more tension on the bolts, which should slow down the inevitable >> loosening of the bolts as the keel moves around while sailing – and thus >> require less frequent torqueing or reduce the development of the next smile. >> >> >> >> Rick Brass >> >> Washington, NC >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bruce >> Whitmore via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Friday, September 22, 2017 11:54 AM >> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> *Cc:* Bruce Whitmore <bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net> >> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List question about a C&C 30 mkii keel >> >> >> >> Hi Josh, >> >> >> >> Quick question which I've wrestled with in my mind - Why torque the keel >> bolts on the hard? Since the keel will spend most of its time hanging from >> the bottom of the boat in the water, isn't it better to torque the bolts in >> the specific situation where the stresses will be applied? >> >> >> >> Thanks for the insights, >> >> >> >> Bruce Whitmore >> >> (847) 404-5092 (mobile) >> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > >
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
