I added a two part tackle to my topping lift this year. The line is attached to the end of the boom with a loop and rolling hitch (which allows some adjustment. It is then rove through the normal masthead sheave, and inside the mast to where it exits around 6' above the deck and is eye spliced (IIRC) to a single block. Through that block runs a second line to another single block (with becket) in the normal location at the mast base and thence back to the clutch on the cabin top. (The standing part of that line ends at the becket, the running part goes through both both the upper and lower blocks and back to the clutch. forming a 2 part tackle.) I use an ashley stopper knot - makes a great handle. The line to the cockpit is larger and easier on the hands, and the 2:1 advantage makes it easy to raise the boom with one hand. There is more than enough range for the block to travel between the mast exit and the mast step as you really don't need to move the boom that much. Works great, big improvement for little money as I had the blocks.
I can post photos if interested. Dave *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian Davis via CnC-List *Sent:* Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Cc:* Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging Thank you, Josh and John. I really appreciate the detailed replies. If you have pictures as well please email me some directly. Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980. I've researched her numbers and also have some of the original paper work. Paul Eugenio who is on this list also helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have not seen his website you should. (link below) I actually use it as a reference for other projects that I've done and plan to do. He does an amazing job documenting his work. http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Hey Brian, I'm back again. You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it is relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel eye splice with closed thimble). If the length is in question then use the halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end and figure the length. You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the boom has room to be lifted. Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast. Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes. Mine is cleated on the boom just forward of the dodger. Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot like my 37+. 1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to the 37 but also brought with it characteristics of 40. Is there a chance that yours is a 37? Looks like we all answered your question. Any others? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Greetings everyone, I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38. I have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully educated on the terms. The only thing holding up the boom now is the old rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck. When I bought her the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire on the other. Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc. I see a cheek block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast. I want to rig it the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just looking for some guidance. Regards, -- Brian Davis 1980 C&C Landfall 38 "Nina" Southeast Florida
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